“It was one of those days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold:
when it is summer in the light and winter in the shade”
German performance artist Anne Imhof blew away the artworld with her fashion-infused performance at this year’s Venice Biennale. Here, art critic Justin Polera reflects on this remarkable work of art, and how it touches on everything from Berlin hipsterism to the death drive of adolescence.
From its start as an eyewear brand nearly a decade ago, Han Kjøbenhavn has grown to offer a full blown menswear collection with stores not only in its home city but also Paris and New York. Known as much for their avant-garde runway presentations and iconoclastic ad campaigns as their highly personal take on urban sportswear, the company is moving into new exciting times. Whilst waiting for a new CEO to be announced, the remaining founder and creative director Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen talks about the distinctive creative process and the future of the brand.
From Hunan, China, to New York’s downtown via Chicago, Covey Gong defies any easy categorization. His intricate work spans fashion, sculpture, and installation, and investigates our deep emotional attachment to clothes and other everyday commodities. A surrealist twist marks his approach to object making, skillfully producing objects lost in translation between the wearable, the exhibited, and the trashed. We sit down to speak to Gong about mentors, craftsmanship, and story-telling, and why all you need sometimes is some empty coconut juice containers.
Lots of mystery has surrounded ARKET since it was announced in March as H&M’s new retail brand, then described as a “modern-day market that will offer essential products for men, women, children and home.” ARKET follows the mega-retailer’s previous expansion & Other Stories, which quickly has become a high street favorite for upscale beauty and fashion garments for high-street prices – but with this new brand, H&M seems to be moving specifically into the territory of interiors and homeware. First, a Regent Street location was announced to open in London in autumn 2017 – and now, amazingly, it was revealed this week that ARKET will open their first store in Copenhagen too.
Live from the picturesque Miho Museum outside Kyoto, Japan, Louis Vuitton’s ever-touring cruise collection is ready to show their take on the sartorial future of the best travel life. Central to the 2018 collection, which is designed by chief designer Nicolas Ghesquière, is a collaborative celebration of Japanese fashion maestro Kansaï Yamamoto, who was central in defining avant-garde Japanese fashion in the 70s and and 80s. Yamamoto still lives on today as an understated icon, and his global appreciation is way overdue. Click below to tune in for the full story.
Despite the fact that the cold wet weather in Denmark gave no hint of global warming at all, delegates gathered in the capital’s striking DR concert hall last Thursday for the annual Copenhagen Fashion Summit, the clothing industry’s foremost convention dealing with sustainability and its often less-than-benign impact on the world’s dwindling resources.
Last night, the famous Hyères Fashion Festival went down in the picturesque French resort of Hyères, celebrating the brightest design talents of the future. Previous alums include Viktor & Rolf, Anthony Vaccarello, Julien Dossena, and Felipe Oliveira Baptista – a bit of a star factory, in other words. This year, the Grand Prize went to Geneva design student and former Balenciaga intern Vanessa Schindler, whose master’s collection “Urethane Pool, Chapitre 2″ skillfully merged traditional textile craftsmanship with liquid polymer, a radical technology that gives off the appearance of dripping honey. As the grand winner, Schindler snatched a €15,000 award, and will also collaborate with Chanel’s Métiers d’Art division on a project to be sold by the brand, worth €10,000 plus royalties. Not the worst graduation prize! The smaller but equally well-regarded Chloé prize went to German designer Gesine Försterling, while Finnish Maria Korkeila. Check out the runner-up designers here, and look out for these names in the future.
If we can gather anything from this week’s Met Gala, it’s the resurgence of the party boot. Priyanka and Solange both rocked low-cut boots on the red carpet, but the ultimate winners of the evening when it comes to shoes were model Lily Aldridge and our beloved Salma Hayek. Both showed up in the show-stopping 80s-revival spandex thigh boot from last season’s Balenciaga, just one of the many meta-kitsch-chic tropes implemented by head designer Demna Gvasalia since his appointment at the French fashion house last year. In bright neon colors ranging from violet to crimson red, the boots brings any dress, pant, or skirt to new dimensions – adding a surreal twist to contemporary luxury in their blatant celebration of the lycra hey-days of the 80s we thought were best forgotten. If Salma can rock a Spandex look, so can we – so see you on the dancefloor.