Diesel Black Gold menswear show AW2015/16 Milan
When I was a teenager (we’re in the late 1980s) I spent some time in Australia, where – unlike in my home country of Denmark – I was required to wear a school uniform of the conservative variety. We’re talking blue jackets with emblems, shorts, and knee socks, and worst of all, a stupid straw hat. Not exactly appropriate for a budding rebel – a Duran Duran fan with primly styled punk hair – in his worst age, for whom the most important thing in the world was leaving a striking and personal visual expression. Needless to say, the uniform became the object of quite a bit of homemade customizing and bizarre accessories (safety pins are both cheap and effective), letting the teenager behind the uniform shine through. Often, I would make excuses for not wearing the mandatory unseemly uniform pants. Instead, I added ripped jeans to the uniform ensemble – the result was actually quite chic – to the great annoyance of the school’s head teacher, who did, in the end, find mercy and attempted to understand the freedom I was coming from. All ended well, and I became the school’s style guru numero uno.
On Sunday morning, at the Diesel Black Gold show during Milan Fashion Week, I had the craziest flashback to my teen years at the school in Melbourne. The runway models were styled exactly in the somewhat anarchist fashion I had made use of back then. Even the hair was the same. Here, fractions of school uniforms were taken into a loving rebel treatement with chains and safety pins. There was English tweed with a twist of punk, zippers, checks, denim, lots of effective layering, and then my – MY – super-skinny ripped jeans. It was my look from those years, brought back to the surface and reinterpreted 30 years later by the Norwegian designer Andreas Melbostad. Perhaps he’s in possession of a picture of me from back then? Perhaps he, too, was a fan of Duran Duran, Sex Pistols, and Thomson Twins? Perhaps he, too, revolted against conformity…? It certainly looked like it! And it worked for me. I wanted it all one more time – only in a 2015 edition with sublime qualities and perfect cuts a la London’s Saville Row. The collection hit it right on the mark, striking a balance between flawless English tailoring, rebellious punk charm, and “I’m in the band” sexiness. So maybe I have gotten older since “Wild Boys”… but the style still does it.
Images courtesy of Diesel / www.diesel.com