Review: Rodebjer AW19

Carin Rodebjer, Creative Director and founder of Swedish brand Rodebjer, has often stated that strong, conscious and driven women is her main source of inspiration. Previous collections has often referred directly or indirectly to the women that Rodebjer admires, and the AW19 collection, showcased at Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art during Copenhagen Fashion Week, was no exception. The cast included make-up artist Stella Von Senger, the Swedish models Adina Fohlin and Frida Gustavsson, the (mother and daughter) actresses Pernilla and Alba August and French model Gwenola Guichard. In the press release the presentation Charmed was said to “encapsulate the traveling free spirit”, with the Rodebjer woman as “a modern nomad, finding her inner strength in the trio of spirit animals; the crane, the scarab-beetle and the snake, drawing on their diverse qualities as a source of energy.” With the strong cast of talents placed around art works, sitting on chairs, leaning against walls, placed on pedestals like statues making eye contact to the audience and smiling to well-known faces, the word energy was exactly what came to mind. In the best moments, there was almost an Abramovic The Artist is Present-feel to it, which might sounds very pop but nevertheless felt very pleasing. A cobalt blue coat, (vegan) leather over-knee boots, and a pink silk-like dress with a woolen checkered blue and burnt red scarf are what stood out the most to us, not to forget the sculptural sleeves in organza and wool.
 After the presentation (which by the way ended up with one of the models, Sarah Assbring of El Perro Del Mar, singing IWD4U), DANSK caught up with charismatic and stunningly beautiful Gwenola Guichard to ask her about her thoughts on the different way of modelling.

“I really like it.” Guichard stated. “It’s closer to performance than to modelling. It’s about acting, about what you make with the space you have, and what you do with your body. You have to make connection with people, but not too much. It’s more about emotions than on the runway, when you’re basically a robot on high heels. You can’t look at people and you have to be untouchable” she said, adding: “I think it’s the new way, I think it’s what people want. Now, you want to wear the clothes that your friends wear and what people on Instagram wear. Seeing people who look real, but still on a special set, makes more sense nowadays. And for me, it’s much more interesting doing this kind of show. I flew in from London but I’m originally from France. So that’s a far way to come, but I was interested in the concept.” Asked about how the models were instructed she explained: “Each of us had a place. We were told to move, but not too much. Just to be comfortable, relaxed and alive, and to make eye contact with people. To put a bit of ourselves into the characters, but not also too much. Not everyone modelling tonight were models. We were of different ages, heights and sizes, casted more for who we are than for our measurements.”

Words by Ulrikke Bak
For more information, see Rodebjer