Palomo Spain’s spring summer 2019 collection was inspired by cabinets of curiosity, these collections of oddities and exotic souvenirs popular during the European renaissance.
Just like the brand, this collection exalts a need for traveling and encountering the world’s many cultural identities. Palomo Spain is the menswear oddity we need but one wonders if — his audience aside — men truly understand what is going on there. Well, one could say that they don’t need to. This is fashion for the initiated ones. It’s for a very specific public in need of ostrich feathers tops, bejewelled belted jackets, wide leg trousers in rich shiny fabrics, and all kinds of gender-blurring outfits such as the floor sweeping vestal dresses. Most important, that audience demands fabulousness, here found in the dramatic opening look. Elsewhere, winning pieces such as a safari jacket and a very ladies-who-lunch tailored ensemble (completed with a hat and handbag). Also worth mentioning: a golden jacket trimmed with enamel buttons that brought to mind 18th century Rococo fashions.
But is the formula about to choke itself? Creative director Alejandro Gomez Palomo‘s previous offerings each felt like supernovas in the menswear galaxy, fascinating explosions in a part of the industry not used to such pizzazz. But, this spring summer 2019 show reveals a stagnant energy. It doesn’t bang anymore, it only beeps. It feels a bit like when that one friend tells you, again, about that same story you’ve heard a trillion thousand times. Somehow you still are willing to listen to it because everyone else has nothing extremely entertaining or interesting to say. So, you end up sitting there and listening, with or without an alcoholic beverage to help you out.
Words by Pierre M’Pelé