Faustine Steinmetz’ “Blue Denim” penned out as a performative SS17 presentation set in a dark cube featuring models lying on small built-in boxes. Walking through the slightly claustrophobic room, we were able to get a close look at the detailed garments, while getting inviting gazes from the models playing their role as denim mermaids, a nod to Vanessa Beecroft’s Sister Calendar (2000). Playing with illusions, Steinmetz challenges our perception of familiar textures like denim. Dualities ran through each look, making our judgment dubious. Several elements interrogated our senses and made it hard for us to see how the denim had been processed. The first look, a pair of Swarovski-covered pants with Organic-like rock formations were spectacular and appeared almost as a sculpture. The collection consisted of various combinations of techniques such as hand weaving, digital printing, and ikat, a dying method used to print textiles. The tactility of the denim is ever changing, forcing us to move closer. What appears as frayed denim turns out to be a layer of fine threads, this was applied to pants, tops, jackets and skirts. Transparent blue blouses had been reinterpreted and given a typical denim stitching, merging them perfectly with the denim, while logo-embossed pieces added the right amount of tackiness. Tactility is the pride of place in this collection and Steinmetz’ innovative and endless exploration of denim will take her far.
Words by Ottilie Landmark
Images by Jamie Stoker