Every season Fashion East’s panel of fashion industry experts hand-pick young emerging designers, this season we saw Mimi Wade, Matty Bovan, A.V. Robertson and Richard Malone take their turn in the limelight.
Iconic Hollywood imagery riddled the pop-culture inspired lacy slip dresses on display in Mimi Wade’s very own Paramount: Mimimount and a manga-esque feeling pervaded the fitted 50s cocktail dresses. Although it must be noted that the text on the cherry-printed dress, “Suggested for mature audience”, read as heavily Alexander Wang influenced, the overall impression was fun and fresh!
Matty Bovan’s first show was a vibrant culmination of all his ideas to date, resulting in a bomb of neon, net, and glitter! His looks were built from a base of easy and elaborate jersey basics and sported psychedelic prints, above which an intricate net was built. The craftsmanship was apparent through his usage of many techniques, shredding, weaving, knitting and crocheting and was the silver line drawing the clashing materials (vinyl, velours, and lurex) altogether in a harmonious mess. This cyberpunk fantasy was definitely a party we wouldn’t want to miss.
The sci-fi horror vibe A.V. Robertson took as her inspiration wasn’t so apparent to us, but what did come across was a matured 90s club kid with a desire to take a risk while maintaining her ladylike charm. The showstoppers were the fishnet dress ornately beaded with Swarovski crystal and the racy net knickers with a revealing silk blouse.
Last but definitely not least, Irish designer Richard Malone finished off the Fashion East quartet with a celebration of the modern woman. Functionality, body-contouring, and comfort were the word of the day, masterly executed in rib and stretch fabric with adjustable and detachable elements. Utilitarian pieces were breathed new life through the usage of lines and swirls, playing an abstract exchange with the female form and transforming the invisible workwear into covetable items that take center stage. A refreshing and delighting experience as it is rare that designers have an interest in creating high fashion for all kinds of women.
Words by Ottilie Landmark
Photo: NIKLAS HALLE’N/AFP/Getty Images.