Henrik Vibskov: Interview & Review SS18

03-henrik-vibskov-mens18Henrik was gearing up for the “Revolver: Copenhagen International Trade Show” at the heart of the infamous meatpacking district as DANSK came for a behind-the-scenes and last minutes check up before the SS18 show the next day. Wearing his signature beanie, he welcomed DANSK with a warm smile; his rather relaxed posture and body language did not hint any fact that he had just returned from Tokyo in less than 24 hours: ”I just got back from Japan and prepared for the exhibition at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.” Referring to 150th Year Anniversary of Japan – Denmark Diplomatic Relations Exhibition, “Everyday Life – Signs of Awareness.”

As undoubtedly Denmark’s most recognized and respectable Avant Garde figure, whose visionary works have transcended beyond fashion; from art performances and exhibitions to costume design, Vibskov’s transdisciplinary DNA is truly injected into his design: “This collection was somehow triggered by one of our interns from South Korea, Misung. She was a part of the opening act for the AW17 ‘The Five O’Clock Leg Alignment’ (00:49) and fell asleep despite the loud music. The 1000+ audiences thought it was a part of the performance!” Vibskov clearly followed his intuition and instinct. Hence why “The Great Chain of Sleepers” is the unconscious response to such stimulus or in his own words: “Underwater-dreamy nightmare and the ability to sleep as a trophy for creatives,” executed clearly in the pajamas-like cotton shirts and shorts that put wearability at ease in the easy, breezy winds of spring and summer. As the comforts of blue progresses towards earthy and warm colors, kimono-inspired cardigans are imprinted by floral abstracts, paying homage to contemporary Harajuku aesthetics to the runway: “It’s inspired by Japan with some touches of ‘off-Nordic’ look, and Yin and Yang,” as Vibskov scanned through the racks while presenting the fur-inspired sweater decorated by the noticeable circular symbol.

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Influenced by recent reflections on socio-political revolutions that blurred our generation, a new understanding on how Vibskov engage with urban fashion in relation to spatial and natural setting have placed this line as the mediator for design across all disciplines: “My education at CSM taught me to approach my design process through various approaches, that should be my advice for young designers who want to make it in fashion.” As he presented the half-circular bags from his collaboration with the South Korean brand, Gentle Monster. His tenure at the British capital may influence the eccentric colors, but of course, with the minimal and “hygge” design philosophy that is quintessentially Danish: From sustainable materials to locally-produced, oldschool knitwears.

24 hours later, Charlottenburg castle played host to the long-awaited SS18 show. At the center were hanged sleeping bags, or in Vibskov’s own words; “nightmarish.” Once these sleeping bags were unveiled, the show finally started. As the last model walked out and Henrik Vibskov smiled for another victory this season, DANSK admired the brilliance of his storytelling and as a designer who believes in the interplay of design to bring fashion forward – and most notably, none of his team fell asleep this time.

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Words by Kevin Holicka

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