Johannes Boehl Cronau is a young German fashion designer who graduated from the prestigious MA Course at Central Saint Martins in 2017. Prior to successfully attending Central Saint Martins, Johannes had studied fashion design at Parsons in Paris and cut his teeth at Haider Ackermann where he received invaluable creative and technical knowledge. Johannes has now launched his own label fuelled with a rare sense of Parisian elegance, Anglo-Saxon pragmaticism, and the traces of research trips to Japan, the Middle East and Italy. On September 30th of 2017, Johannes presented his debut collection ‘a thing to wear’ under his moniker, IOANNES. Although it is a S/S18 collection, we have an eye on the black puffer jacket, and for good reason as the piece is the first to make it to the brand’s permanent collection, a signature garment that will evolve with the brand. We sent our Man About London Town Pierre A. M’Pelé try it on: “It’s hygge for your body!” he promptly exclaimed. IOANNES has definitely provided us with a piece we’d love to snuggle into this winter, and the following one.
The recent majestic celebration of the life and oeuvre of Gianni Versace at Milan Fashion Week, where all our favorite supermodels (Bruni, Christensen, Campbell, etc.) joined sister Donatella to bring back the late designer’s bold colorful vision, led several people to announce that this season “it’s Gianni season.” To them, all we have is a slap in the face, as well as a correction; it’s always Gianni Season. Gianni Versace, whose life ended tragically in Miami in 1997, had a take on opulence and fun in fashion that hasn’t been matched since. His cuts, colors, and materials scream 1980s yet endure the test of time for their timeless appeal. The archives from his many collections are fiercely hunted by collectors and shoppers to this day, and for those with such a passion, we’ve got the best news.
True luxury is, in essence, about excess: the abundance of stuff that you don’t really need to survive, and being able to afford the time to use them. We have to admit that if the Internet and the smart phone revolution has been good for anything, it’s been for navigation and travel: gone are the days of skitzophrenically navigating the streets of Venice with some €20 tourist map, or tirelessly carrying around your friend’s chewed-up Lonely Planet guide to South India because you were too stingy to get a copy of your own. The age of Yelp indeed seems to have displaced the art of travel guide publishing, which is exactly why it’s an opulent statement to revive it. And what better aid than Louis Vuitton? The seasoned French fashion and accessory house have been the absolute leaders of stylish travel gear since their founding in 1854 in Paris, so it was a welcomed gesture when they extended their Parisian sensibilities beyond how you pack, to aid you around the world in where to eat, sleep, shop, and party. Responding to the fast-changing nature of the world and its cities, 9 of the 29 Louis Vuitton City Guides have recently been subject to an update, with the new publications guiding you through the cities of Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Peking, Berlin, Milano and Sydney anno 2018. And don’t worry, young one, if you’ve been permanently damaged and must absolutely consume all information through the digital screen: they all come in digital editions, compatible with your Iphone.
As the days are getting shorter, and the last drops of Aperol Spritz have been anxiously extrapolated from our emergency bottle, we’re increasingly catching ourselves looking for cheeky sunny get-aways – and with that, the right accessories. Mykita’s most recent collaboration is hardly suitable for the wet, grey-scale autumns of Northern Europe; rather, they gesture to a Venice Beach-esque frivolousness, or an Ibiza kind of nonchalance. This is perhaps due to FourTwoFour on Fairfax (or 424, as they’re naturally acronymmed), the hyped fashion, art, and jewellery boutique in downtown LA, spearheaded by designer Guillermo Andrade.
One of the more unexpected but very welcomed trends to emerge in the past seasons is the rise of the chunky trail shoe. In an unpredictable aesthetic fusion of working class England (specifically, the enduring appeal of Dr. Martens), Berlin’s second hand scene, and the rise of so-called “gorpcore” (fashion really needs a new copy writer), the awkard chunky shoe has made its arrival on the scene, taking queues from Brutalist architecture as much as your uncle’s hiking boots. Our current favorite is Angel, the new style by Swedish shoe brand Eytys. Beyond skillfully tapping into a current trend, Angel cites the proud barrio style of 1990s East LA, merging purposely distorted lines in the sole with a minimalist upper. Offered in sand suede and shiny black leather, the result is astonishingly elegant, fit for the streets of Stockholm as much as for a hiking trip with the beforementioned uncle. Well, just about, anyway. Suede maintenance at own responsibility.
While the 2010s might be deemed by many as the golden age of streetwear, this ephemeral phenomenon, at the intersection of skate–, music–, and club–culture and the luxury fashion market, has a history to be recounted. In this narrative, Stüssy has not only a central but a foundational role, as it pioneered the eclectic fusioning of west coast surf culture with irreverent brand-hacking and clever “influencer” marketing, which today is complete customary in the scene. Founded by surfer Shawn Stüssy in the early 80s, as began applying his distinctive signature onto t-shirts instead of his surfboards, the brand became an international yet underground marker of underground fashion culture in the late 1980s.
In the age of abundant high-profile fashion collaborations, it’s paradoxically rare that we feel genuinely excited about one. Most often, they consist simply of brand cross-pollination, where my logo goes on your logo, to increase revenue – while little is actually “collaborated on” formally or aesthetically. The best collaboration is the kind where a brand gets access to new forms of design, production, and distribution – and this is certainly the case with OFF-WHITE’s latest collaboration, with shoe megalith Nike.
If there was ever a time to measure reality according to Sex and the City, those days are definitely over. Carrie’s self-imposed narcissism is now not just glaringly obvious, but extremely problematic – while Stanley and every other gay character represented in the series needs an urgent sociopolitical update. Another dimension in need of checking is of course the shoes – the borderline unhealthy obsession with Jimmy Choo’s, Manolo Blahnik’s, and other supposedly “chic” footwear. At some point in the 80s, it seems as if shoes were submitted to unhealthy rules of beauty, sexuality, and elegance, not unsimilar to those imposed onto women and their body-shape. Shoes, it seems, should preferably be slim, slender, and sensual – but honestly, why, when those categories tend to be nauseatingly boring? What about the ugly, the awkward, the furry, and the weird? Luckily, a few designers are currently gesturing to an aesthetic realm beyond the “beautiful”, designing shoes that are fashionable because of their weirdness. We’re talking curbed and deformed shapes, spear-headed by the likes of Margiela, who realized that the ugly is the most interesting. Here’s some of our FW17 favorites.
It’s July and if you’re located anywhere south of Stockholm, you may not have been able to imagine closing your windows, preventing the aromatic scent of the summer to infuse your living quarters. Sure, what better smell than nature – that’s until nature turns into hazardous down-pour, storm, and freezing temperatures. We’re already preparing ourselves for an autumn indoors, but would like it to be as olfactorily pleasing as the dog days of summer. Aesop, the incredibly crafted and superiorly branded beauty brand with its origins in Australia, has long been a stable in our beauty cabinet, bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms, so we were thrilled to hear of the new extension to the well-smelling family.
Living in a time of extreme social division and political unrest in Europe and beyond, it may feel just slightly meaningless to go shopping and adorn yourself in the latest season of your favorite high street brand. True, shopping solves many things – but contrary to what some politicians would have you believe, political crises or global conflict is not one of them. Does that mean, however, that fashion cannot be political – that what we wear has no agency to change minds, initiate discussion, or visually protest? The Berlin-based art/fashion agency and brand König Souvenir recently joined this discussion with the launch of their latest souvenir: a circular star-studded classic hoodie in a bright navy blue that effectively makes its wearer a walking, fashionable EU flag – with a 24-hour hotline printed in the back.