Writing in his autobiography in 1991, shortly before his death from AIDS-related complications, David Wojnarowicz wrote of his life: “My queerness was a wedge that was slowly separating me from a sick society.” This remarkable inversion of sickness and health, between different bodies that are marked as ‘other’ and the society that enforces this markation, is an apt reflection of Wojnarowicz’ similarly groundbreaking contribution to queer culture. The American artist, poet, and photographer shaped two decades of American queer culture with his captivating photographs, paintings, and stories; he formed important alliances and friendships with a community of artists in and around the East Village scene, including Peter Hujar (his one-time lover), Nan Goldin, and Kiki Smith; and was one of the most adamant voices in the fight against AIDS in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Known to many primarily for his iconic album cover for U2′s One, all of Wojnarowicz’ work was a emotional and deeply resonating critique of American identity, politics, and culture. In LOEWE‘s most recent initiative, creative director Jonathan Anderson visits the artist’s archive to release a capsule collection of t-shirts honoring his seminal legacy while supporting the continued fight against the illness.
As we’ve reported before, the 1990s are back, along with one of its most distinct fashion trends: the thin sunglasses. This miniature-size eyewear fad was popularized by a series of powerful women in 90s movies like The Matrix and Clueless, and resonated with Europe’s rave scene as much as it did with North America’s neo-preppy college populations. But as hipster culture of the 00s rolled out, re-fetishizing authenticity and “the alternative”, the thin sunglasses went into a decade-long hiatus, demonized as the most ghastly of all. But now, thanks to fashion’s current 90s revivalism, and euro-fetish brands like Gosha Rubchinskiy and Balenciaga, the sunnies are back, channeling part dystopian youth culture (perfect for the Trump years!) and part high fashion ironique.
The internet almost broke in 2017 when Supreme, the mega-hyped New York streetwear brand, launched a collaboration with luxury fashion house Louis Vuitton. All of the sudden, the characteristic red/white logo, first appropriated by Supreme from the American artist Barbara Kruger and since applied to everything from skateboards to sweatshirts, was available in high-quality merchandise of French luxury fashion, most significantly with the offering of handbags for both men and women. Kim Kardashian flipped out, as did we. The collectormania that has surrounded Supreme since their earliest days was catapulted into extremity (spawning articles like this one). While the mastermind behind this crossing of worlds, LV Head of Menswear Kim Jones, have since gone to greener pastures, Ebay is still on fire with speculative trading a year later, with wallets and bags going for several thousand dollars. It would appear that the world never seems to tire from skate-infused merchandise.
Without a doubt, Converse is the oldest stable in our wardrobe. From the first time we pierced our ears and ran away from home, to attending festivals, fashion weeks, and flamboyant fiestas around the world, we’ve kicked in many-a Chuck Taylor in our lifetime and will not stop anytime soon. Jonathan Anderson, on the other hand, is a newer addition to our wardrobe: the Northern Irish designer graduated from London College of Fashion in 2008, and launched his eponymous label J.W Anderson that same year. Since, he’s taken the reigns at Spanish luxury house Loewe, and have continued to mesmerize the world with his seductive silhouettes, pastel color pallets, and gender-fluid designs. Naturally, we couldn’t be more pleased with Converse’s ongoing collaboration with Anderson, who for the last couple of seasons has offered his interpretation of the American shoe manufacturer’s iconic portfolio of designs. Characterizing the collaboration is an experimentation with contrasts, and a play with youth-cultural tropes—to which Converse, a global symbol of adolescent dissonance, is inherently connected. The newest collection, launching April 4th, sees Anderson draw inspiration from the brand’s vintage ballerinas (including the Chuck 70 U-boat) with added modern approaches to materiality and technique. “The original vintage ballerina which inspired Chuck 70 U-boat was actually more of a sports show in mesh, than anything else,” said the designer in a statement. “I liked the functionality and the lightness of the shoe, and we decided to use some of these details to create this new icon.” Perfect for both genders and everything in between, the J.W Chuck is the soles on which we want to enter summer.
No home is complete without the appropriate padding – and here, we’re not talking childproofing any sharp corners, but about comfort. While “hygge” has become a fraudulent term, the coinage for quintessentially Danish ambience having been coopted in the corporate interior design industry, we still believe strongly in providing surfaces all over the house on which to rest one’s body, strike up conversation, have a 1pm cocktail. A bit of spectacle helps too; we’ve always been drawn to daybeds more than couches, functioning as they do as stages in their own right. Who doesn’t remember Elizabeth Taylor greeting her suitors from her Ancient Egyptian chaise longue? Imagine the Queen of both Hollywood and the Egyptian Empire trying to project from a Fatboy or an Ikea floater. Daybeds, rather, are for people with class, stamina, pose; a kind of stringent comfort, somewhere between performance and rest. Our current favorite hails from Händvark, the emerging furniture producer founded by Danish media man Emil Thorup. Händvark strives to pair stellar interior design with sustainable materials, which in the case of their daybed manifests in velvet-smooth aniline leather – a type of leather dyed exclusively with soluble dyes without covering the surface with a topcoat paint or insoluble pigments – upholstered locally in Copenhagen. Get your hands on a bed in time for the summer party. You might as well cancel if you don’t have a place to lounge.
There are countless ways to wear your art – repurpose a sculpture, painting-as-t-shirt; there’s nothing we haven’t seen, really, in the line outside Holy Mountain on a Saturday night. But Calvin Klein Underwear recently released a capsule collection that allows for the same auratic vestiary experience in a much more down-to-earth manner: the American heritage brand, led by stoic Belgian Raf Simons for the last couple of seasons, has partnered with the Andy Warhol Foundation to license small stills from his epic 50-minute silent film Kiss (1963) and print them on their timeless underwear. Kiss was one of Warhol’s first ventures into cinema, shooting it in 1963 after having set up the early Factory in Downtown Manhattan; it features a series of rather nerve-wrecking 3-minute make-out sessions between the likes of Gerard Malanga, Naomi Levine, and Johnny Dodd, all Factory regulars. The collection ties in seamlessly with Simons’ larger neo-America project since arriving at the CK doorsteps a few seasons back, releasing his 2017 campaign that featured a youthful clique of models facing great modern American masterpieces. We imagine Warhol underwear as a great conversation starter for any potential bedroom visitors, but even if that feels improbable in the near future, CK’s still take the prize of best underwear out there.
In the world of interior decorating, few things are as enduring as Danish design. Our retro-futurist plastic chaiselongs have come and gone, our mid-century Americana bought and sold, and now, even our neat 2014 Japanese tea sets are starting to hurt our eyes. We can’t – and why should we? – escape our Nordic upbringing, our almost genetic affiliation for quality, simplicity, and timelessness. One of the biggest household names within this canon is Lyngby Porcelain, the porcelain manufacturer established as the Danish Porcelain Manufactory in 1936 in the city of Lyngby just North of Copenhagen. The manufacturer was skilled in responding to the current zeitgeist of its time, and spearheaded functionalist design with an ode to Bauhaus and industrial design – and in its time, produced many a hit within interior decorating and diningwear. 80 years later, their Lyngby Vase in particular has become a design classic, foundational in every Danish home, and increasingly, a cherished signifier of taste globally. While preserving history, Lyngby Porcelain has been keen to continuously invite for creative re-interpretations of its timeless stables, and most recently released a sensuous mini-collection of Lyngby Vases with an added running glaze along its rim, clashing its industrial demeanor with a playful, crafty finish. Needless to say, each glaze is unique and one-of-a-kind – and comes in three subdued color stories ideal for your seasonal pallet, be it fresh-cut meadow flowers or a pale winter bouquet. Best part is: we promise you’ll love these longer than any interior fad you’ve picked up on in your recent Pinterest search. Just trust us.
Merry Christmas from the entire DANSK team, who in the past couple of days have been pre-occupied with various holiday festivities. Drinking is definitely one of them – as well as long walks with our grandmothers sausage dog when our cousin’s rambling about the benefits of private child care has gotten to our nerves. Another big tradition is the annual Christmas Winter Sale, which sweeps across physical and e-shops alike to empty stock before the new season and year. It’s a great distraction from various dysfunctional family lunches – but also a highly economical one, with most items reduced 50%-65%. What better time to buy a coat – that essential piece of your wardrobe which somehow always feels out of reach and budget. We’ve sourced 12 favorites across the men’s and women’s section, from voluminous Jacquemus coats to crafty Craig Green jackets. Take your pick, and thank us later.
Christmas is upon us, and so is our insatiable urge to build wishlists. Besides our Amazon list, which at this point is long enough to fill up a new wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, we tend to avoid the “save for later” option throughout the year – if you don’t want it now, it’s because you don’t need it – but the moment the first Mariah Carey Christmas crooner reaches our ears, we start snooping around on web-shops for must-buys for the coming festive season. As ideal an opportunity it is for getting your grandparents to re-stock your kitchen with a new set of Ikea glassware, Christmas presents should really be about the non-utilitarian commodities of life – the collectibel, the weird and decorative, the luxurious. In preparation for next weeks madness, and in recognition that several of our readers may still be desperately seeking shopping tips, we’re happy to bring you the first edition of our Christmas wish-list.
While the strategy of x designer collaborating with x market manufacturer to produce a capsule collection of desirable monogrammed commodities is reaching a point of saturation, we’re still convinced there’s a few more team-ups we’d like to see. Maybe in 2018 we’ll see a Vetements collaboration with Walmart – or was Juicy Couture the limit for the Zurich-based company? We’ll see. But before then, we’re sharing our last — we promise — collaboration of the year, this time between Danish street RTW brand Soulland and global sportswear leader Nike, specifically their subsidiary NikeSB, who specifically support skateboarding culture across the globe, from L.A. to St. Petersburg.