Tradition, utility, and craftsmanship are three important keywords to describe Johnny Coca’s SS17 Mulberry collection. Set in an enormous factory in one of South London’s industrial areas far away from Chelsea’s luxury shops, it was feminine utilitarian outfits, beaded dresses and luxury goods that strolled down the infinitely long runway.
Every season Fashion East’s panel of fashion industry experts hand-pick young emerging designers, this season we saw Mimi Wade, Matty Bovan, A.V. Robertson and Richard Malone take their turn in the limelight.
Set in a seedy strip club in a touristy part of town, the Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu took us down to the basement where her models shone under red lightning leaning on poles and provoking the viewer with their gaze. No trace of sunlight made it down here, where night and day melted into one.
As people arrived at the venue and got directed to their seats, shimmering pompon installations hung from the ceiling in the middle of the runway making the guests wonder what Ryan Lo would present for his SS17 collection.
A universe of ruffles, frayed edges, bows and glitter expands as the clothes appear on the models who resembled porcelain dolls, with painted faces and perfect wavy hair in loose buns, all wearing small, healed leather shoes with socks. See-through dresses, vests with puffy sleeves, and sweet cocktail dresses in floral jacquard were broken up by an extremely oversized sweater with a harlequin print.
Lavender and light pink dominated the first part of the show, followed by a darker pallet. Like a transition to another culture, looks with harem trousers changed the character completely and in an exotic fusion the whole show became a colourful symphony of cultures. A fairytale where the princess meets the genie in a bottle, perhaps.
To top of Lo’s exotic extravaganza he donned his models with sequinned and feathered pirate hats, aptly finishing off the cacophony of cultures and flavours for his SS17 presentation.
Words by Ottilie Landmark
Photo: Cleo Glover, courtesy of Wonderland Magazine
We all need an escape from our busy lives once in a while, and Friday afternoon, Marta Jakubowski took us back in time to her childhood memories.
That’s when I could finally breathe
While Copenhagen Fashion Week SS17 might have come to a close last week, the magic dust it cast over the Danish capital still lingers in the air (exagerrated, also, by Pride this weekend). It was a week of big statements, ambitious productions and great fashion – proving that Copenhagen has fully claimed “5th place” after the big four fashion weeks – London, Milan, New York, Paris.
Belts are back! The belt has been presented on several key runway shows recently. Especially Vêtements, Raf Simons and Tim Coppens have played with new lengths. Why this sudden reinterpretation of an old utility item?