The Marc Jacobs SS19 was quite the experience. An hour prior to the show, an e-mail notified guests that there would be a 30-minute delay — very civilized (please take note Paris Fashion Week). Tic toc. But one hour down and complaints were many. Fashion people’s ability to easily and happily whine during fashion week is remarkable. Did they have some prior commitment? Some hideous skirt convention to go to? At least one editor I know left to catch a flight back to Paris — fair enough.
Stop whatever you’re doing! It’s fashion month! If you haven’t already joined the caravan of manic, sleep-deprived editors and buyers traversing New York, Milan, London and Paris in the coming 30 days, you need to pack your bags NOW! Or, at least stay close to your computer in order to consume all of next year’s fashions at instantaneous speed. Round-ups will be coming, but until now, stay tuned for the most anticipated show in New York: CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. Defying the torrential rains that have plagued the fashion week thus far, Raf Simons is sure to bring out all the sunshine this Tuesday, 11th September, 20:00 New York time (that’s 2AM EST). Click below to watch. You’re welcome!
Fashion is much more than just exclusive runway shows and never-ending trade fairs: it’s one of the world’s most prevalent cultural forms, a type of art, and a societal praxis that involves everyone from Anna Wintour to your grandma. This can be easy to forget at Copenhagen Fashion Week, which this week is unfolding in the overheated cobbled streets of the Danish capital. Thankfully, we can rely on vanguard boutique owner Sabine Poupinel to expand fashion beyond its own most pragmatic commercialism, as she invites for another chapter of her exhibition project FAN OUT. Featuring leading names in fashion design, research, critique, and curation, FAN OUT acts as a physical discursive space for the duration of fashion week, with an ambitious program of talks, performances, and workshops. “The thinking behind this year program stems from the original idea behind FAN OUT: Creating an alternative space for fashion beyond the shows and trade fairs, that includes more nuances and perspectives on wat fashion is and can be,” the show’s organizer Mette Ohlendorff explains. “Fashion is a field that borders on so many others. At FAN OUT we strive to encapsulate this by also including art, performance, music, talks and much more. This year in particular we notice themes such as sustainability, the environment, sexuality and functionality being explored.” From new performances by Barbara í Gongini to a talk by DANSK editor Jeppe Ugelvig on the relationship between art and fashion, you’re guaranteed a mind-expanding and intellectually invigorating fashion experience – not the most common at fashion week events.
For full program, see FAN OUT
Before all of the world’s high society portraiture was conducted by Annie Leibovitz (no hate, Annie – but it’s time to move over), there were other stellar female photographers who captured the world with elegance and strength. Particularly the infamous Madame D’Ora made her mark on the photographic medium at the very cusp of its emergence, working between Vienna and Paris from the early to the mid 1900s. A new exhibition in Vienna traces the life and work of the pioneering image maker.
The heatwave currently roasting the Nordic region from the inside (see: forest fires in Sweden, agricultural drought in Denmark) is making it hard, very hard to continue to focus. Who wants to think about fashion when all you want is to walk the streets au naturel? OK, we know that in 60% of the world, 29°C is pretty standard during summer time, but you’re talking to people who saw the sun for a total of 4 times last year – at this point, SAD is not a seasonal disorder, it’s a cultural philosophy. We couldn’t be happier about the current tropical climate, so in celebration, we’ve round up some tunes that will match our incessant consumption of rosé for the weeks to come. Now take off that knitted Jil Sander jacket, can’t you see it’s summer!
While most of the world’s civilization is clinging on to their TV screens to catch another round of soccer, tennis, or biking (honestly, what is going on!?), we fashion folks are way busier parsing through the latest couture news from Paris. Following reports from the world’s leading critics, it seems like a promising season for the fashion of all fashion, with bold visions presented at houses like Valentino, Christian Dior, and Iris van Herpen. Across the board were strokes of pure genius, be it with uncompromising pattern cutting, strong conceptualisms, innovative use of technology, or the purest elegance. In an industry more and more frequently critiqued for its dis-concern with quality and craftsmanship, its comforting to see that many houses still haven’t lost interest in haute couture with all its out-of-this-world ambition. Our favorite is, still, John Galliano at Maison Margiela, who since launching the ‘Artisanal’ line has revived a sartorial phantasmagoria not seen since the early days of Galliano himself. Anyway, here are some of our favorite moments, presented in no particular order.
Is a three-day event enough for a city that was once looked at as the most fashion-forward? The epicentre of quirkiness is not only snubbed by international press and buyers any more. Designers regularly disappear from the official schedule: last season, J.W. Anderson, Burberry, and Vivienne Westwood fled the scene, and the event’s committee, chaired by GQ Editor Dylan Jones, seems completely impuissant. How long until the event becomes London Fashion Weekend Men’s? The carnage continued this season as designers Craig Green and Wales Bonner were missing in action. Fortunately, several brands still have faith in the city and deployed all their creative forces to lead off the resistance.