Commencing our always idiosyncratic coverage of Paris Fashion Week AW19, we begin with a totalizing vision: a complete fade to grey. Before venturing into a symphony of soft violets and floral prints (sourced from his garden and scanned into digital prints), the Belgian doyen of elegance, Dries van Noten, set the tone with a swathe of looks in all grey. Rather than a heavy mousey hue, Noten’s was warm and inviting, subtly fading into a desaturated viole. The pinstripes added a last touch of chic – and truth to be told, we couldn’t think of a better armour to enter the coming season in. More images below. Stay tuned for more favorites.
Since Thursday night where Ganni wrapped up three days of fashion shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the brand has become subject to international attention. This time not due to general “Ganni Girl” hype, but because the AW19 show “Life on Earth” was called out as “tone-deaf” after a rather problematic set design. Before and during the show, held in a HDR film studio, photos from “Earth” were displayed on enormous screens around the runway, with “Earth” meaning mostly pictures from the Global South. The reportage work by photojournalist Amy Vitale was, we later learned from creative director Ditte Reffstrup’s apology, meant to “portray the diversity and connectivity we share on this planet.” Unfortunately, using images of children and women from countries that suffer from western fashion fetish as exotic background to a Scandi show was a huge disconnect.
On the third day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Swedish Stand Studio showcased their AW19 collection under the roof of Nikolaj Kunsthal, Copenhagen’s third oldest church. The spacious room and the high white ceilings formed the perfect frame for a fashion show. However, it was in this sanctuary setting we came to realize that we’ve lost our lust for block colour faux fur stolas and leather—snake skin—teddy fabric combinations mix and match.
Carin Rodebjer, Creative Director and founder of Swedish brand Rodebjer, has often stated that strong, conscious and driven women is her main source of inspiration. Previous collections has often referred directly or indirectly to the women that Rodebjer admires, and the AW19 collection, showcased at Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art during Copenhagen Fashion Week, was no exception.
Copenhagen Fashion Week AW19 offers the heavyweights of Nordics design, but a handful of new brands particularly stood out. Sille Ugelvig reports.
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For years, you’ve been able to get away with the most normative of buzz-cuts, its simplicity alluding to some kind of post-post-condition of self-styling, while also resembling the Gosha/Vetements-nexus in just the right way. Well honey, that time is over. Fall 2019 is all about actual hair-dos: whether long, short, or spotty, this year requires you to please just do something to that mane of yours. Feeling uninspired? Fear not. Our guide from Milan Men’s week that concluded just a few hours ago will give you plenty of ideas. Leopard dots, anyone?
With this season’s men’s fashion month well on the way, we haven’t been able to ignore a growing trend. Or rather, the absence of one. Smaller shows, shorter programming days, in fact fewer days altogether. Men’s fashion week is shrinking all around – and is, in fact, increasingly occupied by women’s fashion. Doesn’t that seem to counter the growing menswear trend, you may ask? Indeed. Reports in recent years show that menswear, once the dark horse of fashion, is the fastest growing sector in the market, rapidly approaching womenswear as an equally valuable asset. In fact, rumors even claimed that at Balenciaga, led by menswear genius Demna Gvsalia, the revenue on men’s fashion has already overtaken that of women’s. So why are men’s fashion weeks in New York, London, Paris, and Milan – some of them less than 10 years old – shrinking or downright closing? The answer is found partially in the importance of menswear itself.
While the kids are just about to sharpen their crayons, and return to the gilded halls of primary education, us fashion folks have already been up an running for a week. Even if January calls for serious hibernation and no alcohol, fashion screams louder, forcing us to dig out those tight Galliano pants and crack open a bottle of prosecco (thank god). It’s fashion week, in London. Once known as London Collections: Men, London Fashion Week Men’s has undergone an update in the latest seasons, slimming down its roster (and budget) but strengthening focus on its core trademark: young talent. From Art School to Mowalola, here’s some our favorite moments from the past 3 days of running around the East End trying to dodge street style photographers while not getting confused for the Spanish tourists on the “Jack the Ripper”-walking tour.
You’ve barely recovered from your New Years Eve shenanigans, and have not yet dared to open your clogged inbox, filled to the brim with insistent “Gently following up…”-e-mails from highly irritating colleagues and spam notifications about January Sales in shops you’ve never remembered shopping in. You’re still mourning your 2018 boyfriend, and have already broken your new year’s resolution. Ladies and gentlemen: welcome to 2019. When there’s no other place to look to for comfort, look to fashion: and this week, specifically, London Fashion Week Men’s SS20. Yes, it’s the first fashion week of the year, and this one is tight and punchy with lots of particularly emerging talents worth keeping an eye on. Here’s a couple of events, shows and names to look out for as London unveils what will (perhaps) be its last pre-Brexit men’s week – thank us later!