Clothes today have become a language…
We use them to communicate.
In what will broadly be remembered as “the shittiest year of all times,” there were some highlights on the runways of the world. In fact, designers present their strongest strikes of genius when times are rough, as fashion becomes that fantastical, illusory medium that help us dream and escape. We’ll think back of 2016 to the year of logos, a round of musical chairs amongst the power-players of creative directors in Milan and Paris, and the year when the fashion world finally woke up and dismissed Kanye West’s sand-colored, genocide-appropriating fashion endeavor. On that note, we still haven’t recovered from Kim’s shocking accident in Paris, that led her to discontinue posting on social media. Her Instagram stands as frozen in time at Paris Fashion SS17 – perhaps an apt metaphor for all of us, who honestly can’t wait for the summer to come? While it won’t contain less Trump, it will hopefully be less death, prettier boys, and more radical fun. Until then, here’s some of our favorite collections of the year.
With a razor-sharp visual style (and a pretty nifty way with an actual knife), Canadian-born Maxwell Burnstein has been making waves with his art-meets-fashion photographic collages. He’s done covers for Elle, editorial for Harpers Bazaar and collaborated with Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci amongst others. Having provided The-Counsel with our first birthday card, Maxwell spoke to us about his influences and ambitions.
If you don’t already know about them, it is about time you do! Joris Suk and Tessa de Boer are the creative heads behind the Arnhem-based brand, MAISON the FAUX, who just showed their newest collection during New York Fashion Week. “There is something in the air in New York”, Tessa and Joris told DANSK Magazine, but there is definitely something brewing with the skillful brand MAISON the FAUX as well.
If I had my way tonight,
I would surely change your mind
You might be surprised at what you see
I know I don’t look the part,
don’t turn it off before it starts
I can hear your heart talkin’ to me
Tradition, utility, and craftsmanship are three important keywords to describe Johnny Coca’s SS17 Mulberry collection. Set in an enormous factory in one of South London’s industrial areas far away from Chelsea’s luxury shops, it was feminine utilitarian outfits, beaded dresses and luxury goods that strolled down the infinitely long runway.
Every season Fashion East’s panel of fashion industry experts hand-pick young emerging designers, this season we saw Mimi Wade, Matty Bovan, A.V. Robertson and Richard Malone take their turn in the limelight.
Set in a seedy strip club in a touristy part of town, the Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu took us down to the basement where her models shone under red lightning leaning on poles and provoking the viewer with their gaze. No trace of sunlight made it down here, where night and day melted into one.
As people arrived at the venue and got directed to their seats, shimmering pompon installations hung from the ceiling in the middle of the runway making the guests wonder what Ryan Lo would present for his SS17 collection.
A universe of ruffles, frayed edges, bows and glitter expands as the clothes appear on the models who resembled porcelain dolls, with painted faces and perfect wavy hair in loose buns, all wearing small, healed leather shoes with socks. See-through dresses, vests with puffy sleeves, and sweet cocktail dresses in floral jacquard were broken up by an extremely oversized sweater with a harlequin print.
Lavender and light pink dominated the first part of the show, followed by a darker pallet. Like a transition to another culture, looks with harem trousers changed the character completely and in an exotic fusion the whole show became a colourful symphony of cultures. A fairytale where the princess meets the genie in a bottle, perhaps.
To top of Lo’s exotic extravaganza he donned his models with sequinned and feathered pirate hats, aptly finishing off the cacophony of cultures and flavours for his SS17 presentation.
Words by Ottilie Landmark
Photo: Cleo Glover, courtesy of Wonderland Magazine