If Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts brought us to the Swiss Alps last year, their SS18 collection takes us bit further to the east and into a fun universe set somewhere between the Mattel 50′s Barbies, eastern-european amusement park romanticism and German raststätte. The show was held at the Langelinie Pavilion, and Poul Henningsen’s iconic artichokes designed for the same building shone their light on models wearing big plastic hair clips in multiple colours, swimsuits and white lacquer platforms in front of a SP logo-studded curtain, carelessly mounted too short at the top and too long at the bottom. The fascination with Lotta Volkova post-Soviet aesthetics was clear. The look was Eurotrash and ‘glam Czech hausfrau meets Ibiza holiday’, over-bleached hair, gaudy earrings, extravagant furs over cheap tracksuit pants and red sale dots on the soles of the shoes.
For her 10-year anniversary show, Stine Goya invited us to the industrial port area of Nordhavn. The sun was out for what felt like the first time this summer and there was plenty of time to enjoy it thanks to a solid one hour delay. When the doors opened we were left free to stand wherever we liked in the dark on the first floor of Faurschou Foundation. The only lights in the dim concrete space were some variation-over-peachy coloured film in front of the walls and a huge cotton cloud hanging from the ceiling. The title of the show, Flashback Forward, referred to her earlier designs as could be expected, but Goya, known for sticking close to the brands DNA, also pulled some new scarves from her sleeve. The atmosphere was spherical, set in a state between sleep and awake with the rose pink light resembling a sunrise and the music with a cosmic Mort Garson-like feel to it. Besides the classic Goya coral coloured elements, the show had an appealing darkness, with models moving slowly like sleep walkers and gathering in a circle around a pole to head bang. The clothes had a magic, cirque look with marionette doll prints, half moons, stars and hearts with the most impressive pieces rejuvenating Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche line
Words by Anne Ulrikke Bak
This year’s Paris Couture Week featured a very special presentation – an ethereal exercise in Gothic detailing, leather tailoring, and organza draping. Hyun Mi Nielsen, the ambitious contemporary fashion brand founded by Danish designer Christine Nielsen, received the great(est) honor of being invited by the French Fashion Federation to show amongst the most conceptually and technically daring, and she rose skillfully to the occasion, stunning international press on the way. Cutting her teeth at renowned fashion houses like Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, and Givenchy as head womenswear designer, Nielsen is more than equipped to take the world. What’s next? DANSK sits down with Christine to learn more.
Yes, we made it through: while most of the European continent’s youth were busy applying permanent damage to their livers at either Glastonbury or Roskilde Festival, the gay fashion aristocracy were very preoccupied navigating a 34 degrees warm Paris in various forms of deconstructed mesh. After several years of British dominance in the menswear scene, the French seem to finally have reclaimed what is left of a cohesive menswear fashion week schedule – despite show absences from hot names like Vetements – and in sum, we can assert that SS18 will be a season that is exhiliratingly well-dressed. As per usual, there were in the clothes gestures and abstractions aplenty – impulses, references, or hidden narratives only legible by the designer – and to celebrate this sartorial non-sense, we at DANSK grabbed a pen, and gave it our best shot in deciphering the complex meanings of contemporary men’s fashion. You’re welcome.
“It was one of those days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold:
when it is summer in the light and winter in the shade”
What the audience witnessed at the Grand Palais on March 7th 2017 wasn’t just a tour-de-force. It was an incredible demonstration of power and creativity, and an exceptional fashion moment that will go down in history as the most epic runway show ever. It will not be equalled, let alone be topped because let’s face it, who will ever be able to match Karl Lagerfeld’s CHANEL – except for Karl himself?
A fleeting iPhone camera shot, a mondane everydayness, a blond girl walking, an ambient Finnish mumble: Marimekko presents a surreal vision of FW18 through a new film.
Never received your front row ticket? Fear not. Watch the whole livestream of the Louis Vuitton AW17 show here.