“Scandi Minimalism” has been a trope in fashion for well over a decade, a label that has garnered previously unmatched attention to Scandinavian fashion, boosting the industry if not at times oppressing its aesthetic potentiality. It seems that while most designers across the world works to distill their artistic vision into one of sartorial simplicity, Nordic designers are faced with the opposite challenge: to differentiate from simplicity. For both loud and quiet fashion, pure style moves beyond questions of adornment. No one knows this more than Filippa Knutsson, the Swedish powerhouse designer who established the RTW label Filippa K almost 25 years ago.
New York Fashion Week roars on, and while rumors speak of a drastic structural change for the American industry week (who’ve experienced drop-outs by notable names such as Proenza Schouler in recent years), Aw18 is business as usual. New York has always been characterized by its proximity between the fringe and the corporate, and designers navigate the landscape of art, commerce, and play in always inventive ways. Here, our man in the street, Jonas Huckstorf, goes behind the scenes of Kim Shui, the Italian-American designer, cherished by the industry and celebrities alike for her smart interrogation of “good” vs. “bad” taste in the near-history of female dress. Presenting with V-Files in 2016, and sponsored by Vogue Italia, Shui has gone on to dress the it-girls of her generation (including Solange, Cardi B, and Kylie Jenner!) – and presented her latest collection, an outré take on winter power dressing, Saturday noon.
New York Fashion Week F/W 18 takes off amidst blizzard warnings and a dwindling economy; what better reason, then, to dress up fiercely for the front row? Follow our man in the streets, Jonas Huckstorf, as he goes backstage of some of fashion week’s freshest talents, beginning with the unmistakable Feng Chen, who since graduating from London’s Royal College of Art in 2015, has developed a highly original menswear silhouette through her namesake brand.
As womenswear season commences, and the first fashion week of the season taking off in our native Copenhagen, we’re still digesting January’s menswear presentations. Hell, by the time we got to Paris, our body fluids consisted of 33% champagne and we were scrambling to tell apart Gabbana from GmbH (kidding, if that was the case, we shouldn’t be doing what we do). The reasons why this season felt particularly overwhelming was perhaps due to menswear still being the most exciting field in fashion today. In its third chapter of its very own golden age, menswear has not only overcome the standardized fascism of the 20th century suit, but is beginning to diverge from a particular “sportswear” silhouette, which dominated much of the early 2010s. With young, internet-savy consumers emerging across the world, today, men’s fashion is as exciting and as liberatory as its female counterpart – delivering visions that are not only breaking free from traditional gender stereotypes, but thinks critically about form, function, and materiality. Signification is about as hyperactive as a Roland Barthes book from the 70s – complete obscurity has overtaken postmodernism, which is only to be celecrated. From the creepy stoicism of Dior Homme to the kinky Pokemon get-ups of Walter Van Beirendonck – here are some of our favorite moments from the past season – with suggested archetypes who we predict to find such outfits not only appealing, but essential.
As men’s fashion month rages on, you might suddenly reach pure exhaustion, and get the sudden urge to recline into bed… But what about all the fashion? Fear not, French maison Hermès has long catered for a life in luxury, and will be live-streaming their FW18 show this evening at 8pm CET. Get your zero calorie popcorns and let’s go!
Less that 24 hours ago, it was announced that Kim Jones is stepping down from his role as Men’s Artistic Director at Louis Vuitton. The British, South Africa-raised designer graduated with accolades from Central Saint Martins, and assumed his role at the French luxury maison in 2011. It’s rare to see such a persistent level of quality across seven years of collections – where Jones revelled and worked through his and LV’s shared passion: travel. From India’s dusty cities to the open plains of Peru, Jones again and again brought modern bohemian elegance to the table, which has attracted a huge following with consumers and industry alike, no doubt highlighted by the much-hyped Supreme collaboration last year. “It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” commented LV CEO, Michael Burke. “His ability to set trends is impeccable and his talent and determination have ensured that Louis Vuitton is firmly placed as the leading brand in luxury Menswear today. All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.” Before his replacement is announced, and Mr. Jones figures out his next step, take a walk with us through some of his brightest moments at Louis Vuitton.
In sum, the Autumn/Winter 2018 season of London Fashion Week Mens was a tad underwhelming. Underwhelming is perhaps a euphemism, considering that the season was as exciting as a slice of white bread dipped in a glass of tap water. Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, J.W. Anderson bailed out, leaving a gap in the schedule which reverted to a three-day format. Collections were as gloomy as the city’s weather, but a few designers stood out and nevertheless delivered bright ideas.
‘Tis the season for deep reflection – reflection on a year that’s rapidly approaching its end. What was your rose and thorn of 2017? In life, in work, in fashion, in music? In journalism, such meditations translate into boundless lists and round-ups; summaries of what affected us, inspired us, made us laugh and cry, across the cultural landscape (we won’t even go into politics – it’s too dark a time, honestly). We know, it can reach an obnoxious level (“Best Gluten Free Chinese Recipes of 2018 and the Bespoke Cutlery to go With It”), but lists are still more useful than useless. In 2017 (not a great year for fashion), particularly the music world offered us some truly remarkable moments , with experimental releases happening across the spectrum from the underground to the uber-commercial. At DANSK, we never discriminate; what matters is an innovative and thoughtful approach to form and style, whether it’s something we can dance, cry, or sing along to. Whether it’s Frank Ocean crooning on the single Chanel, GAS furthering their journey into techno-infused ambient, or Cardi B delivering the most bad-ass rap in recent history, here is our undisputable, authoritative round-up of the year in music. Happy New Years!