In today’s globalized world – where it’s always fashion week somewhere – it’s easy to tire from the constant stream of shows. A spectacular resort collection unraveling out of a modernist spaceship museum in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil? Seen it. A steamy, romantic couture collection presented in an ancient palazzo in Sicily, nested amongst the pine trees? Meh, done that! Corporate fashion’s love affair with destination shows easily grows boring, if not down right wrong, as seen with last week’s Dolce & Gabbana scandal in Shanghai. But yesterday, we died and went to heaven and resurrected in just seven minutes when Maison Valentino presented its pre-fall 2019 collection in an old warehouse in Tokyo – the first for the house since the 1980s.
As fashion month comes to a close, the art world is ready to saddle up for a season of frantic activity, beginning with last week’s Frieze Art Fair in London and running all the way until Art Basel Miami in December. For the next two months, the world’s prime gallerists, artists, and collectors will roam across the Earth in the search for the best showcases and sales – and this week, it’s all about Paris, who hosts its annual FIAC art fair. While FIAC is one of the older fairs of the European continent, it’s only in recent years it’s really re-established itself as a leader in the industry, attracting a great variety of blue chip and emerging names from around the world. Its international importance has made the FIAC week the most important of the year for the city’s museums and galleries, as proven by the wealth of exhibitions that can be experienced in the city. Should you be an uninitiated outsider – or frankly, just more concerned with the latest droppings on Vogue Runway, but still down for some painting-watching – despair not; here are four shows not to miss this week in the French Capital.
Riccardo Tisci has unveiled his first collection for British fashion brand Burberry since his announcement as the brand’s new creative director back in March. When the announcement was made, many quickly began speculating what he would do to the British fashion heritage maison. Many bets were put on his love for glam rock and Gothicism, as seen in his years at the French fashion luxury house Givenchy; others on his natural and intuitive take on the millennial generation and that this would stir things up a bit in the West London stable dresser. Finally, some set their hopes up for him to keep promoting diversity through his work. Most of it was fulfilled.
As fashion month (finally) comes to a close, you might – like us – find yourself sitting paralyzed on your daybed, staring in to nothingness, with feet massacred from kilometers of stiletto walking and €2000 less on your bank account, wondering what it all means. What can we really gather from fashion week, when that week lasts 36 days and spans 4 cities and features more than 200 prominent names? Not much, we can admit. But because we’re fashion editors, it’s actually our job to sit and parse through whatever we may have missed between the accent removal of CELINE to the beach vibes at CHANEL, and regurgitate it to you in a somewhat interesting, even inspiring manner. So with no further due, we present one view of the SS19 season, unapologetically featuring our favorite and the most trend-defining accessories of next summer.
or: THE EMOTIONAL ROLLERCOASTER OF PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI’S VALENTINO, TEARS INCLUDED.
Words alone cannot fully describe the feelings pirouetting inside one’s body during a Valentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. The collection’s notes insisted on the word freedom, the idea of letting things go and discovering a paradisaical haven where rules don’t matter any more. Pierpaolo Piccioli invited his guests in the Invalides complex, as Hedi Slimane did two days before. Of course no rational being would venture into comparing the two shows on such basis, because in terms of splendor, Valentino is plainly unmatchable.
The Marc Jacobs SS19 was quite the experience. An hour prior to the show, an e-mail notified guests that there would be a 30-minute delay — very civilized (please take note Paris Fashion Week). Tic toc. But one hour down and complaints were many. Fashion people’s ability to easily and happily whine during fashion week is remarkable. Did they have some prior commitment? Some hideous skirt convention to go to? At least one editor I know left to catch a flight back to Paris — fair enough.
Stop whatever you’re doing! It’s fashion month! If you haven’t already joined the caravan of manic, sleep-deprived editors and buyers traversing New York, Milan, London and Paris in the coming 30 days, you need to pack your bags NOW! Or, at least stay close to your computer in order to consume all of next year’s fashions at instantaneous speed. Round-ups will be coming, but until now, stay tuned for the most anticipated show in New York: CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. Defying the torrential rains that have plagued the fashion week thus far, Raf Simons is sure to bring out all the sunshine this Tuesday, 11th September, 20:00 New York time (that’s 2AM EST). Click below to watch. You’re welcome!
Fashion is much more than just exclusive runway shows and never-ending trade fairs: it’s one of the world’s most prevalent cultural forms, a type of art, and a societal praxis that involves everyone from Anna Wintour to your grandma. This can be easy to forget at Copenhagen Fashion Week, which this week is unfolding in the overheated cobbled streets of the Danish capital. Thankfully, we can rely on vanguard boutique owner Sabine Poupinel to expand fashion beyond its own most pragmatic commercialism, as she invites for another chapter of her exhibition project FAN OUT. Featuring leading names in fashion design, research, critique, and curation, FAN OUT acts as a physical discursive space for the duration of fashion week, with an ambitious program of talks, performances, and workshops. “The thinking behind this year program stems from the original idea behind FAN OUT: Creating an alternative space for fashion beyond the shows and trade fairs, that includes more nuances and perspectives on wat fashion is and can be,” the show’s organizer Mette Ohlendorff explains. “Fashion is a field that borders on so many others. At FAN OUT we strive to encapsulate this by also including art, performance, music, talks and much more. This year in particular we notice themes such as sustainability, the environment, sexuality and functionality being explored.” From new performances by Barbara í Gongini to a talk by DANSK editor Jeppe Ugelvig on the relationship between art and fashion, you’re guaranteed a mind-expanding and intellectually invigorating fashion experience – not the most common at fashion week events.
For full program, see FAN OUT
Before all of the world’s high society portraiture was conducted by Annie Leibovitz (no hate, Annie – but it’s time to move over), there were other stellar female photographers who captured the world with elegance and strength. Particularly the infamous Madame D’Ora made her mark on the photographic medium at the very cusp of its emergence, working between Vienna and Paris from the early to the mid 1900s. A new exhibition in Vienna traces the life and work of the pioneering image maker.