Fluctuat Nec Mergitur: Pierre M'Pelé on Paris Fashion Week

CELINE SS18 Photo by GETTYParis, Paris, Paris. Capital of France? For sure. Capital of Fashion? Not so certain anymore, although competition from its main contenders —bewildered London, morose New-York, and soporific Milan— seems incredibly tepid this year. Is S/S 2018 a catastrophic fashion season? Despite the general creative fatigue that has been going around like a persistent virus, resulting in the endemic copy-cat syndrome—effectively brought to light by several social media vigilantes including the controversial @diet_prada account, even though sometimes comparisons remain farfetched—a handful of designers were able to admirably hold their grounds.

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Best of Paris Fashion Week SS18

Paris

From collection to cast, music to location…

Here are the 10 best of Paris Fashion Week SS18

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Crossing The Line: @dietprada and the State of Fashion Criticism

Screen Shot 2017-10-02 at 09.22.51With the mission to give credit where credit’s due, fashion’s very own vigilante, the anonymous someone behind the account @dietprada, continues to unceremoniously reveal copycats in the industry – this season with even sharper claws. With an active community of 28k followers and some of the best hashtags the Internet has ever seen, (#justchangeitalittle, #pushthesleevesupabit #gotthosemargieladiscoballsleevestoo), this account has become one of the most important voices in fashion. By placing one current runway look next to a suspiciously similar predecessor, they highlight the fact that copying both other designers and artist is not at all unusual. Quite the opposite: ripping off is common procedure for renowned fashion houses and newbies alike.

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Review: Missoni SS18

_LLL0071It was a different 20th anniversary Angela Missoni was celebrating in Milan. Indeed, she has been the creative force behind Missoni’s colourful optimism. When one thinks of Missoni, an array of hues and patterns comes to mind, and a feeling of joy that is unmatched in fashion. The house, founded in 1953 by the designer’s parents, invites us all to have fun next summer.

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Review: Versace SS18

versace-ss18-women-fashion-show-collection-look-01-frontThe year 2017 marks the 20th anniversary of the savage murder of Gianni Versace, on the steps of his Miami home on July 15th, 1997. Gianni Versace is the man who revolutionised fashion and haute couture altogether by means of lust and extravaganza. For the past 20 years, Donatella Versace, the creative heir of the Versace empire has put into practice all that she’s learnt at her brother’s side (the pair worked closely and the little sister oversaw Versus Versace’s collections). Sometimes she hits the bull’s eye, sometimes she doesn’t, but she always leaves people with a clear idea of what Versace stands for. Donatella being obsessed with “looking and pushing forward!” she had never looked at the archive of the house since Gianni’s passing away – even her S/S 2008 collection, which marked the 10th anniversary of Gianni’s demise didn’t hint to the past. But with the S/S 18 collection, Donatella confirmed that Gianni lives through her.

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Best of: London Fashion Week SS18

Marta JakubowskiOn the second stop of International Fashion Month, we’ve reached the British Isles, currently subject to quite a bit of political and social upheaval. Brexit and the disastrous fire at Greenfell Towers have proved that Thatcher-era English class politics are still in abundance in the UK, but as it’s been proved before, it’s exactly in moments of political crisis that fashion is the most interesting. As noted by several fashion editors in the past week, identity politics seem to be the most visible theme amongst London’s fashion designers, bringing forth and celebrating the ethnic diversity that London long has prided itself for championing. With the outcome of Brexit still looming indefinably over the country’s garment industry, it’s an uncertain time to do business, yet designers (small and large) are using this moment to assert their continued relevance on the global stage. Fear not if you missed out – we’ve collected all the best bits.

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Best of: New York Fashion Week SS18

_ARC0119Fashion season is upon us: after commencing in Copenhagen, the global circuit descended last week upon New York City, the first of the “big four” of fashion weeks that also includes London, Milan, and Paris. It’s a notably uncertain time to show fashion in, particularly in the US, which beyond (or because of ?) being challenged by a rather abhorrent political system, has seen many of the central protagonists of NYFW relocate to rivaling Paris or Milan. The hey-days of American Commercialism, where every other finalist from Project Runway would establish some obscure but profitable RTW line, seem today completely faded – which has, fortunately, opened up for more interesting and genre-defying projects in the city. Regardless of couture hierarchies, the Big Apple is still the sartorial city of dreams, with big corporate investors and private clients en masse. This produces an odd ecosystem that houses both large-scale corporate re-inventions (CK, Juicy Couture, Helmut Lang) as well as vestiary social experiments from the downtown underground scene (Vaquera, Eckhaus Latta). While nothing extraordinary can be said of NYFW SS18, it nonetheless offered moments of genius – here, are some of DANSK’s impulsive favorites.

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Henrik Vibskov: Interview & Review SS18

03-henrik-vibskov-mens18Henrik was gearing up for the “Revolver: Copenhagen International Trade Show” at the heart of the infamous meatpacking district as DANSK came for a behind-the-scenes and last minutes check up before the SS18 show the next day. Wearing his signature beanie, he welcomed DANSK with a warm smile; his rather relaxed posture and body language did not hint any fact that he had just returned from Tokyo in less than 24 hours: ”I just got back from Japan and prepared for the exhibition at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art.” Referring to 150th Year Anniversary of Japan – Denmark Diplomatic Relations Exhibition, “Everyday Life – Signs of Awareness.”

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Livestream: Calvin Klein SS18

It’s New York Fashion Week! Once hailed as the absolute center of RTW, NYFW has in recent years taken a crumble – declared dead, even – as designers en masse have been seen fleeing the Big Apple. Naturally, then, Europe’s favorite enfant terrible and anti-designer Raf Simons chose this Trumpian moment to descend on America’s big city, and revitalize Americana in the most spectacular way through his role as new creative director for Calvin Klein. Without a doubt, Simons presented the best collection of FW17 – and now, time has come for the hard second collection. Don’t despair if your exclusive invite to the show (which last year counted celebs like Julianne Moore, Brooke Shields, and of course Anna Wintour) got lost in the mail – the whole affair can be streamed right here, from the comfort of your futon. Have your ice water ready for 8 pm EST.

Review: Designers Remix SS18

If the Olympus mountain were to be placed onto the flat landscapes of Copenhagen this season, then the Cirkelbroen bridge at the canals of Christianshavn would be divine. The picturesque view along the river gave the illusion that the bridge was floating midair as industry’s insiders sat solemnly, praying to be enlightened. This show is all about a brand that stood the test of time since 2002: DESIGNERS REMIX by Charlotte Eskildsen and her husband, CEO Niels Eskildsen, doesn’t need any further introduction anymore!

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