Diversity is the talk of the decade and it is limited to no business. In fashion, men are slipping in skirts, like women have been slipping into suits for what comes near to a century. Diversity adds flavor and wit to every business and next in line to contribute is the big grey: age. Since forever, beauty has been synonymous with youth, and during the fashion weeks products have been showed off on young strutting bodies in the small age range of 15-25, all though sense for fashion has no age, in fact it has a habit of growing only better and fashion is starting to realize. Below we’ve gathered 7 AW19 ready-to-wear collections that stated the ‘Greynaissance’.
Words by Mathilde Nielsen
Pasquale Autorino, native Italian currently based in Milan, caught our attention ever so swiftly through his sensational eye for composition, details and visual poetry, as well as for his distinctive pictorial method of photography. Defining himself as a “Visionary Of The Unconscious”, his vision is characterised by a mystic element, flourishing throughout his body of work. Among his key inspirations, there’s mysticism and dreaming, together with the Freudian instincts of Life and Death (in ancient Greek, Eros and Thanatos), both of which hover in his head spasmodically. Darkness, Mystery, Melancholy, Narcissism and Romanticism: an ineffable climax of feelings, constituting few of the idyllic approaches gracing his visionary philosophy. Besides, a pivotal hue which never fails to be present within his creations is Silver. Why so? Yet, an undefinable factor according to the artist. We catch up with one of the most promising visual storytellers of the moment to learn more.
Have you tired from the overwhelming banality of run-of-the-mill fashion – and their prescribed outfits of cocktail dresses, power suits, and pencil skirts? Do you find current dress culture utterly boring – or in desperate need for a whole new identity this coming season? Fear not – DANSK, the harbinger of avant-garde, has got your back. As cherry blossoms bloom all over the world, we’re guiding you to the few essential tips for the SS19 season. In fact, all you really need is …
One of our absolute highlights from the FW19 fashion month was Louis Vuitton, who asserted itself as the Parisian brand with a remarkable presentation. The historic French label, specializing in a travel-infused luxury range of clothing and accessories, have in recent years, under the creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquière, developed a rather extraordinary habit of destination resort shows in some of the world’s most beautiful architecturally-drawn museums – such as the Miho Museum in Japan and The Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro. But for this season, Ghesquière cast his eyes on Paris’ very own architectural wunder-institution: the Centre Pompidou.
Launched in April 2011, the Portuguese label Marques’Almeida managed to pave its way into the fashion system by thanks to its distinguished style. The duo, formed by the prolific Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, had the privilege of collaborating alongside Vivienne Westwood and Preen By Thornton Bregazzi, experience that led them to excel whilst gearing up their business, including winning the prestigous LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. A CHROMATIC CHAOS could unquestionably define the key etiquette at Marques’ Almeida this season.The chosen tonal palette enabled a subtle yet compelling portrayal of the brand’s ethos, where fluorescent details juxtaposed with less dynamic tones depicted an empowered woman, with an utterly rebellious allure.
FOR YOUR VIEWING PLEASURE
SATURDAY 19 CET
Commencing our always idiosyncratic coverage of Paris Fashion Week AW19, we begin with a totalizing vision: a complete fade to grey. Before venturing into a symphony of soft violets and floral prints (sourced from his garden and scanned into digital prints), the Belgian doyen of elegance, Dries van Noten, set the tone with a swathe of looks in all grey. Rather than a heavy mousey hue, Noten’s was warm and inviting, subtly fading into a desaturated viole. The pinstripes added a last touch of chic – and truth to be told, we couldn’t think of a better armour to enter the coming season in. More images below. Stay tuned for more favorites.
Since Thursday night where Ganni wrapped up three days of fashion shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the brand has become subject to international attention. This time not due to general “Ganni Girl” hype, but because the AW19 show “Life on Earth” was called out as “tone-deaf” after a rather problematic set design. Before and during the show, held in a HDR film studio, photos from “Earth” were displayed on enormous screens around the runway, with “Earth” meaning mostly pictures from the Global South. The reportage work by photojournalist Amy Vitale was, we later learned from creative director Ditte Reffstrup’s apology, meant to “portray the diversity and connectivity we share on this planet.” Unfortunately, using images of children and women from countries that suffer from western fashion fetish as exotic background to a Scandi show was a huge disconnect.
On the third day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Swedish Stand Studio showcased their AW19 collection under the roof of Nikolaj Kunsthal, Copenhagen’s third oldest church. The spacious room and the high white ceilings formed the perfect frame for a fashion show. However, it was in this sanctuary setting we came to realize that we’ve lost our lust for block colour faux fur stolas and leather—snake skin—teddy fabric combinations mix and match.
Carin Rodebjer, Creative Director and founder of Swedish brand Rodebjer, has often stated that strong, conscious and driven women is her main source of inspiration. Previous collections has often referred directly or indirectly to the women that Rodebjer admires, and the AW19 collection, showcased at Den Frie Centre of Contemporary Art during Copenhagen Fashion Week, was no exception.