Don’t be mistaken: it’s not all mid-century designer furniture, bike culture, and the most extensive welfare system in the world that you’ll find in Copenhagen. Scratch the pristine, carefully branded utopia on the surface, and you’ll find an ocean of bizarre folkloric practices, working class malaise, and seriously dark humor. We’re talking eating mega-processed hotdogs, drinking beers and smoking cigarettes in one of the country’s bodegas hours on end, as if health directions of the past 25 years don’t apply to the Nordic natives. As you can well hear, we have a love-hate relationship to our low-brow culture, as does the rising menswear brand Tonsure. The Copenhagen label have both symbolically and materially interpreted the “stuff” of Danish culture in their ambitious collections, and approached it head-on when they launched a capsule collection with concept store Storm earlier this year honoring Copenhagen.
Today sports and fashion brand FILA, announces their new premium line FILA Fjord under the creative direction of Danish designer Astrid Andersen. With this expansion, the Italian/Korean brand elevates their heritage and DNA to emphasize the iconic slogan – The Measure of Perfection. FILA Fjord will launch during Pitti Uomo (the single most important event for menswear worldwide) for the AW19 season in January 2019.
Moving fluidly and fast, Tokyo-based designer and one half of hyped jewelry brand AMBUSH®, Yoon Ahn, has designed a new collection with sportswear megalith Nike. The capsule collection is meant to investigate how movement- and sports-wear finds itself in a – in many ways – uncertain moment. In her everyday-life, Ahn travels back and forth between her main-base in Tokyo and her job in Paris. Ahn, therefore, is one to know the value of functionality is, and this clearly shines through in the collection. She shares AMBUSH® with her partner Verbal, the jewelry label built on a unbiased and matter-of-fact approach. In 2016, the duo decided to launch their very first ready-to-wear collection. The collection was described to be ‘idiosyncratic’ – meaning that it is peculiar to itself. Though that might sound a bit vapid, Ahn’s explanation is not: “The new lifestyle that a lot of us live is not so fragmented. Before, how you dressed in the morning wasn’t carried into nighttime. Now we move through space and time more fluidly.” We live in time where individualism and idiosyncrasy thrive. We want to be peculiar, and the fusion collection with Nike is merely one expression of this. Including two jackets – one reversible and one in faux-fur – a bodysuit with the Nike DRI-FIT technology, a crop top and a pair of fleece trousers, the collection brings vanguard Japanese aesthetics to western functionalism, and does so really well. With regards to footwear, Ahn has let herself inspire by the Air Max 180 silhouette, coalescing it with other classics, such as the Zoom Flight.
The Danish doyen of avant-garde, Henrik Vibskov, is not only a purveyor of great fashion; he’s also a skilled retailer, with his Copenhagen and New York boutiques counting among our worldwide favorites. This week, our friends in Paris can enjoy a taste of his concept store magic, when he launches a temporary pop-up in the 10th arrondissement. Grab your friend and come for a drink! A bientôt!
In today’s globalized world – where it’s always fashion week somewhere – it’s easy to tire from the constant stream of shows. A spectacular resort collection unraveling out of a modernist spaceship museum in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil? Seen it. A steamy, romantic couture collection presented in an ancient palazzo in Sicily, nested amongst the pine trees? Meh, done that! Corporate fashion’s love affair with destination shows easily grows boring, if not down right wrong, as seen with last week’s Dolce & Gabbana scandal in Shanghai. But yesterday, we died and went to heaven and resurrected in just seven minutes when Maison Valentino presented its pre-fall 2019 collection in an old warehouse in Tokyo – the first for the house since the 1980s.
Last week, a scandal ensued around the Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana, founded and directed by the unapologetic Italians, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, after a series of videos, promoting their upcoming fashion event in Shanghai, were accused of containing racist content. If a sparsely dressed Chinese girl trying to eat a giant cannolo with a pair of chop sticks, while a narrator intones, “Is it too huge for you?” (see below) wouldn’t substantiate those claims – Stefano Gabbana’s SoMe feud in the DM’s of Instagram page @dietprada certainly did the job – launching derogatory attacks on China and the Chinese people in a grotesque cascade (“eat dog shit” and “Dirty Smelling Mafia”, to give you a sample). In less than 24 hours, almost all of the show’s Chinese supermodels and celebrity A-list guests cancelled their participation, the Shanghai City Government shut the event down, and Yoox pulled all Dolce & Gabbana from their e-commerce platform. The brand themselves issued a statement that they had been hacked (although there’s proof of the opposite), and later released an excruciating apology video with the design duo, exclaiming the already iconic words: “We want to apologize to the Chinese people … Because there are so many of them!” At least D&G puts their money where their mouth is. In the aftermath of the scandal, leading to calls to boycott the brand altogether, has lead to a revived conversation about consumer power, the morals of fashion media, and how to assert politics in fashion. We guide you to some of the best reads right here.
Have you ever wondered how your favorite perfume would sound, if it was a song? What about, say, a 1-hour mixtape? Well, we have. But as of today, we no longer need to dream and imagine; a click to Soundcloud should do the job. We fell in love with London-based scent wizards IIUVO when they launched their Soigné scent last year – with notes of sandalwood, crystal violet, cyclamen and nutmeg, it’s a sensation that’s as concrete as it is abstract – and one that’s resulted in many a compliment in 2018. Their lush scented candles are equally alluring – atmospheric, rather; inspired by affective memories, the scents crawl under your skin like a long-lost lover. To further represent their aesthetic universe, they recently tapped Berlin-based designer, shop owner (and DANSK friend) Andreas Murkudis to house a sonic landscape of their various scents, matching each fragrance concept with a state of the heart, measured by its BPM. This has resulted in a mixtape that crawls ambiently from Soigné’s familiar 60-90 BPM to Gilot‘s more up-beat terrain – and ending with Fonteyn‘s 120+ BPM bangers. Perfect for your morning, your day, your evening. We’ve fallen in love once again. Listen below.
This November, jewellery brand Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen provides their customers with an early Christmas present: an insight into their spellbound universe. The Sketchbook, it is called, and it is best described – as the brand’s creative director Charlotte Lynggaard does it – “a crucible of ideas”. It centres round the elements of inspiration that Charlotte and father Ole have used through their ongoing work and collaboration. Squiggles and sketches, raw materials and book pressed flowers, anything that might serve as an element in a future piece of jewellery, is represented in the book, because as, the one half of the duo said herself, “new ideas don’t know the clock”.
Fashion’s got archive fever – a brief look at the contemporary fashion world will easily prove that to you. From the research-driven fashion Instagram accounts of archivings.stack (for all the Margiela looks you’re too young to have ever encountered), rarebooksparis (for an endless stream of fashion books you didn’t realize you needed) and of course dietprada (reminding everyone of fashion’s tendency to copy shamelessly), it’s clear that fashion loves research. No, Kanye West wasn’t crazy when he published 99 looks from an old Margiela lookbook during a breakdown in 2016 – he was obsessing over a better time of dress! Our own favorite archivist is David Casavant, the self-made stylist and accumulator of precious menswear based in New York (we featured him in and old issue – off you go, researcher!). What began as a fad during his adolescent has turned into a successful business, lending frequently to the industry’s top stylists as well as to celebs like Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and, well, Kanye. Deeply connected to the city’s art and fashion worlds, Casavant has used his extraordinary archive to work with artists, stylists and photographers to re-interpret and communicate the invaluable material history on which he sits; and now, this has materialized into a beautiful coffee-table book.
A new Copenhagen concept store that evolves around good craftmanship and aesthetics has opened its doors to whoever should be curious to explore it. Louise Roe Gallery is the name of the place, as well as the craft(wo)man behind it. The store is a creative universe consisting of gallery, shop and restaurant, and the people behind it has made sure that each of the three offers only the best of their sorts. The products the visitors can buy are, of course, Louise Roe’s own products; this fall the brand has made amazing vases as a tribute to an old craft that needs both skill and time: mouth-blowing. The vases are brilliant in the vintage impression of the shapes and the modern touch that is given humor and skill from Roe’s own hand. The interior is a designer mix between brands like &tradition, Flos, Gebrüder Thonet Vienna, and Michael Anastassiades. Together they create a space which, in some way, is very Scandinavian (the furniture is clean-cut minimalistic) and in another way a bit more New York. The store also provides its visitor a change to explore the products of Australian beauty brand, Grown Alchemist. The beauty brand is by no coincidence not only ecological, but also produced to vary the least possible from our own molecular biology as possible – and it looks great on the bathroom shelf.