Fashion’s got archive fever – a brief look at the contemporary fashion world will easily prove that to you. From the research-driven fashion Instagram accounts of archivings.stack (for all the Margiela looks you’re too young to have ever encountered), rarebooksparis (for an endless stream of fashion books you didn’t realize you needed) and of course dietprada (reminding everyone of fashion’s tendency to copy shamelessly), it’s clear that fashion loves research. No, Kanye West wasn’t crazy when he published 99 looks from an old Margiela lookbook during a breakdown in 2016 – he was obsessing over a better time of dress! Our own favorite archivist is David Casavant, the self-made stylist and accumulator of precious menswear based in New York (we featured him in and old issue – off you go, researcher!). What began as a fad during his adolescent has turned into a successful business, lending frequently to the industry’s top stylists as well as to celebs like Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and, well, Kanye. Deeply connected to the city’s art and fashion worlds, Casavant has used his extraordinary archive to work with artists, stylists and photographers to re-interpret and communicate the invaluable material history on which he sits; and now, this has materialized into a beautiful coffee-table book.
A new Copenhagen concept store that evolves around good craftmanship and aesthetics has opened its doors to whoever should be curious to explore it. Louise Roe Gallery is the name of the place, as well as the craft(wo)man behind it. The store is a creative universe consisting of gallery, shop and restaurant, and the people behind it has made sure that each of the three offers only the best of their sorts. The products the visitors can buy are, of course, Louise Roe’s own products; this fall the brand has made amazing vases as a tribute to an old craft that needs both skill and time: mouth-blowing. The vases are brilliant in the vintage impression of the shapes and the modern touch that is given humor and skill from Roe’s own hand. The interior is a designer mix between brands like &tradition, Flos, Gebrüder Thonet Vienna, and Michael Anastassiades. Together they create a space which, in some way, is very Scandinavian (the furniture is clean-cut minimalistic) and in another way a bit more New York. The store also provides its visitor a change to explore the products of Australian beauty brand, Grown Alchemist. The beauty brand is by no coincidence not only ecological, but also produced to vary the least possible from our own molecular biology as possible – and it looks great on the bathroom shelf.
Award season is coming up, and while most people are wondering if Best TV Drama will go to Game of Thrones or Westworld, at DANSK we’re spending all week scrutinizing the Fashion Awards. Previously known as The British Fashion Council Award, the prestigious prize changed name last year to internationalize, and indeed is the main event as far as fashion award goes, and usually unfolds as a glamorous and tasteful event where industry people find a needed chance to celebrate one another. As a recent press release offered, the award “recognises creativity and innovation in fashion, celebrating exceptional individuals whose imagination and creativity has broken new ground in fashion globally over the past 12 months as well as brands and businesses that have transformed the possibilities of fashion today.” Parsing through this year’s list, we can gather that it’s the usual suspects that dominate the scene: celebrity-connected, corporate-backed creative directors like Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia, who are competing against one another’s success with their conglomerate CEO’s breathing down their necks. An act of nepotistic gatekeeping, seeing as the host and backer of the event is Swarowski? Undecided. Burberry makes a surprise appearance as Brand of the Year, even though its undergoing major creative and business reorganization; and London fashion school Central Saint Martin dominates in the “emerging” sector, with names like Artschool, Phoebe English and Richard Quinn. The final decision will be made by the Fashion Award vote body, consisting of over 2,000 individuals from around the world. Just in time for Christmas, the winners of each category will be announced on Monday 10th December at the Royal Albert Hall, during a ceremony attended by 4000 guests – if you happen to not be invited (like us), don’t despair, as we will be reporting from here. Jump for the full list of nominees.
Once known as the region for utilitarian fashion, the Nordic countries are increasingly becoming luxury shopping destinations rivaling Paris, London, and Milan. Thanks to top-notch security, quirky marketable cultural habits such as “hygge”, and really good airport connections, the Chinese in particular are rushing to the North to get a taste of the Scandi life. This is great news for the luxury retail sector, and in recent years, we’ve seen an influx of flagships – Prada, Hermès, Louis Vuitton – arriving in both Copenhagen and Stockholm. Now, the most luxurious of all luxurious brands, Cartier, is following suit, opening its first store in the Nordic region in Stockholm November 8th.
In a time of political turmoil in the big USA – wherein the country’s leader acts more as a hypersensitive, 5-year old compulsive liar than an actual president – it’s hard to say many things about “American Identity” that more than a couple of people may want to stand behind. Even the biggest nation states need collective narratives – be it through food, cinema, or fashion choices. Ironically, the person who seems most interested in re-defining American identity at the moment is a Belgian – to be exact, Raf Simons, whose tenancy at the Calvin Klein empire only continues to unfold in brilliance.
The 1961 romantic comedy Breakfast at Tiffany’s, starring a fresh-faced Audrey Hepburn and a lustful George Peppard, may very well have been the most successful product placement in the history of luxury consumerism. Which other name can rival Tiffany’s absolutely central place in the bourgeois American imaginary, a sphere most of us aspire to even if we don’t like to admit it? “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend,” etc.? Audrey also forever got us hooked on a diet of champagne, black coffee, and dinners on rich men’s credit cards, but that’s a whole other story. Since this epic cinematic fashion moment, Tiffany & Co. have not been resting on their laurels, but slowly expanded from a Fifth Avenue department store to an international brand of jewelry, home goods, and fashion accessories. In recent years, this has meant large expansions to the Asia-Pacific region, North America, Japan, and of course Europe, who may not share Hepburn’s romanticization of dating mafiosos, but who certainly love a bit of sparkle on their fingers. And now, the accessories provider will open in our native Copenhagen.
Athleisurewear is everywhere around us at the moment – from the catwalks of Paris (see Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton) to the streets of Brooklyn (see gorpcore), we’re drowning in practical windbreakers, skiing jackets, and puffer vests, the kind of fashion we spent a decade and a half running away from – thanks Mom and Dad. Now, however, we’re back and hungry for more – unimpressed, of course, with our parents’ hand-me-downs, but craving the newest post-ironic revitalist fashion silhouettes from the best fashion brands. One of our very favorites – our Danish sisters at Ganni – recently presented a fresh, Nordic take on this global trend, as they released a collaboration with Icelandic outerwear brand 66° NORTH for their SS19 show at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
We’re happy to welcome any member to Copenhagen’s fashion retail landscape: Paul Smith. The British designer has been the undisputed king of stripes since launching his namesake brand in the late 1970s, making him a treasured name in luxury casualwear around the world. Sharpening his focus on Scandinavia and its booming retail market, Smith opened a branch in Copenhagen Airport back in 2017 – and now, less than 12 months later, he’s taking on the cobbled streets of Copenhagen’s Inner City. The 103 meters squared shop will be located on Christian IX’s Gade 2, tucked in between several fashionable neighbors – and will reportedly take its interior inspiration from Paul’s admiration for the Danish artist Poul Gernes. At night, the shop will be brought to life with a series of animated projections and a vibrant light installation – and at day, you’ll be able to snatch up your favorite Smith apparel and home goods from the retail universe. Opening August 9th.
You saw it here first! The Kardashian-Jenner clan is back as the face of Calvin Klein Underwear and Jeans, delivered to you directly from Thousand Oaks, California by Belgian master photographer Willy Vanderperre. Shot in March 2018, in Kardashian histiography that means post-Stormy, pre-True – and if you don’t have any clue what we’re talking about, then don’t even bother. It takes perseverence to KUWTK! Full campaign after the jump.
It’s not just American politics that feels surreal, otherwordly, eerie: so does its fashion. Like a Salvador Dalí painting, Calvin Klein’s new Fall 18 campaign takes us to the strange landscape of Utah, inhabited by long-limbed top models dressed in home-knitted balaclavas. The fever dream of a PTSD fashion assistant? No, you’re looking at the vision of Raf Simons and Willy Vanderperre, the dynamic West-European duo that have been shaking things up with their new interpretation of the American heritage brand.