The fashion industry is changing these years, and is doing so fast. In the midst of it, new Danish menswear brand Sunflower is slowly evolving itself to offer a concrete counterexample to an industry driven by newness, hype, and conspicuous consumption. The brand recently premiered its refreshing take on menswear wardrobe during the Copenhagen Fashion Week, so we sat down with the brand’s CEO, Ulrik Pedersen (previously at NN07) about resisting a fast fashion culture, prioritizing quality over quantity, and the future of the project.
There’s nothing we love more than a good comeback: Britney, Paula Abdul, and in fashion, John Galliano, are some of our favorite cultural heroes, but we were equally ecstatic when we heard about the scheduled return of Maikel Tawadros. The former Annhagen designer and graduate from Copenhagen Academy of Fashion Design rose to fame back in 2014, and was quickly nominated for the DANSK Design Talent Award. Yet, after five years and 10 seasons in the industry, the Danish designer bowed out due to financial hardship – taking a much-deserved break to re-think his sartorial vision. The outcome is Arv, which launches this week during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Louis Vuitton’s SS19 men’s show in Paris last year caused more furor than usual. The collection marked a new era not only for the historic French luxury brand, but for menswear as such, with the appointment of the rising star, Insta-streetwear designer, architect, and polymath Virgil Abloh. The founder of the ever-hyped Off-White – and notably, the first person of color to assume a senior design role in the echelons of Parisian fashion – presented a total brand overhaul, consisting of monochrome outfits in different hues, eventually forming a rainbow. With a blink of an eye, the substantial legacy of his predecessor, Kim Jones, had evaporated – fashion must forever look ahead, in search of the next big trend. Total overhauls are increasingly expected from creative directors, and tend to include everything from store design to visual merchandising strategies – just think of Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Demna Gvsalia at Balenciaga, and Hedi Slimane at YSL/Celine in recent years. This too applies for Abloh (who studied architecture), and right now, Copenhagen’s local fan base can experience his magic in the flesh at the brand’s inner city flagship.
Running and drinking… beer? Hm. Not the obvious combination, but it might be your next. Brewer and former youth elite runner Mikkel Borg Bjergsoe is the innovative brain behind the new fashion fusion between Bjergsoe’s own microbrewery Mikkeller and design bureau Femmes Régionales.
American fashion as always been a strange beast, not only to tame, but just to understand. The world’s biggest economy, spanning a vast continent of an incredibly diverse population, couldn’t be further from the upper-middle-class consumers of Europe, or the nouveau-riche clientele of the East. The most successful stories in American fashion consists of those that went to Europe (such as Proenza Schouler, Rick Owens) and those that went commercial: that is, into the world of mass-apparel. As the country’s most iconic brand Calvin Klein announces the departure of their Euro-chic creative director Raf Simons after only 18 months, is it time to reiterate the status quo of American fashion consumption? What is the future for our beloved CK?
Don’t be mistaken: it’s not all mid-century designer furniture, bike culture, and the most extensive welfare system in the world that you’ll find in Copenhagen. Scratch the pristine, carefully branded utopia on the surface, and you’ll find an ocean of bizarre folkloric practices, working class malaise, and seriously dark humor. We’re talking eating mega-processed hotdogs, drinking beers and smoking cigarettes in one of the country’s bodegas hours on end, as if health directions of the past 25 years don’t apply to the Nordic natives. As you can well hear, we have a love-hate relationship to our low-brow culture, as does the rising menswear brand Tonsure. The Copenhagen label have both symbolically and materially interpreted the “stuff” of Danish culture in their ambitious collections, and approached it head-on when they launched a capsule collection with concept store Storm earlier this year honoring Copenhagen.
Today sports and fashion brand FILA, announces their new premium line FILA Fjord under the creative direction of Danish designer Astrid Andersen. With this expansion, the Italian/Korean brand elevates their heritage and DNA to emphasize the iconic slogan – The Measure of Perfection. FILA Fjord will launch during Pitti Uomo (the single most important event for menswear worldwide) for the AW19 season in January 2019.
Moving fluidly and fast, Tokyo-based designer and one half of hyped jewelry brand AMBUSH®, Yoon Ahn, has designed a new collection with sportswear megalith Nike. The capsule collection is meant to investigate how movement- and sports-wear finds itself in a – in many ways – uncertain moment. In her everyday-life, Ahn travels back and forth between her main-base in Tokyo and her job in Paris. Ahn, therefore, is one to know the value of functionality is, and this clearly shines through in the collection. She shares AMBUSH® with her partner Verbal, the jewelry label built on a unbiased and matter-of-fact approach. In 2016, the duo decided to launch their very first ready-to-wear collection. The collection was described to be ‘idiosyncratic’ – meaning that it is peculiar to itself. Though that might sound a bit vapid, Ahn’s explanation is not: “The new lifestyle that a lot of us live is not so fragmented. Before, how you dressed in the morning wasn’t carried into nighttime. Now we move through space and time more fluidly.” We live in time where individualism and idiosyncrasy thrive. We want to be peculiar, and the fusion collection with Nike is merely one expression of this. Including two jackets – one reversible and one in faux-fur – a bodysuit with the Nike DRI-FIT technology, a crop top and a pair of fleece trousers, the collection brings vanguard Japanese aesthetics to western functionalism, and does so really well. With regards to footwear, Ahn has let herself inspire by the Air Max 180 silhouette, coalescing it with other classics, such as the Zoom Flight.