For those who still doubt the power of social media in the fashion world, the latest chapter of the Gucci/racism row should put in a nail in the coffin. More so than ever, luxury fashion brands exist at the mercy of public internet approval, a forum where even a single voice in Harlem could start a revolution. This is indeed the case with the case of the king of Black Fashion, Dapper Dan.
With Paris Fashion Week just coming to a close, we’re still digesting all the wonderful things we were lucky to see this week. A definite highlight, and certainly the most extravagant, was certainly by the American Mr. Hilfiger, who invited over 1300 of his best friends to the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées for a sparkled celebration of America, in collaboration with his newest brand ambassador, Zendaya. Let’s recount it one step at a time to make sure we’re not forgetting anything.
Yesterday, news broke of the death of Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Chanel as well as Fendi, and the unrivaled king of contemporary fashion. Lagerfeld’s long-spanning reign over Western luxury fashion is unparalleled by any other talent working today, and his legacy will be hard to match by any of his peers (Chanel, however, have against all speculation announced his right hand, Virginie Viard, as his predecessor). While Lagerfeld’s closest relatives and friends prepare for his funeral, the fashion world mourns his passing with a stream of obituaries and in memoriams – including Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, i-D, Purple, and AnOther. At DANSK, we won’t re-trace the words of so many others, so to remember our dearest Karl, we look back at some of the earliest moments of his career(s) in pictures. More below.
The fashion industry is changing these years, and is doing so fast. In the midst of it, new Danish menswear brand Sunflower is slowly evolving itself to offer a concrete counterexample to an industry driven by newness, hype, and conspicuous consumption. The brand recently premiered its refreshing take on menswear wardrobe during the Copenhagen Fashion Week, so we sat down with the brand’s CEO, Ulrik Pedersen (previously at NN07) about resisting a fast fashion culture, prioritizing quality over quantity, and the future of the project.
There’s nothing we love more than a good comeback: Britney, Paula Abdul, and in fashion, John Galliano, are some of our favorite cultural heroes, but we were equally ecstatic when we heard about the scheduled return of Maikel Tawadros. The former Annhagen designer and graduate from Copenhagen Academy of Fashion Design rose to fame back in 2014, and was quickly nominated for the DANSK Design Talent Award. Yet, after five years and 10 seasons in the industry, the Danish designer bowed out due to financial hardship – taking a much-deserved break to re-think his sartorial vision. The outcome is Arv, which launches this week during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Louis Vuitton’s SS19 men’s show in Paris last year caused more furor than usual. The collection marked a new era not only for the historic French luxury brand, but for menswear as such, with the appointment of the rising star, Insta-streetwear designer, architect, and polymath Virgil Abloh. The founder of the ever-hyped Off-White – and notably, the first person of color to assume a senior design role in the echelons of Parisian fashion – presented a total brand overhaul, consisting of monochrome outfits in different hues, eventually forming a rainbow. With a blink of an eye, the substantial legacy of his predecessor, Kim Jones, had evaporated – fashion must forever look ahead, in search of the next big trend. Total overhauls are increasingly expected from creative directors, and tend to include everything from store design to visual merchandising strategies – just think of Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Demna Gvsalia at Balenciaga, and Hedi Slimane at YSL/Celine in recent years. This too applies for Abloh (who studied architecture), and right now, Copenhagen’s local fan base can experience his magic in the flesh at the brand’s inner city flagship.
Running and drinking… beer? Hm. Not the obvious combination, but it might be your next. Brewer and former youth elite runner Mikkel Borg Bjergsoe is the innovative brain behind the new fashion fusion between Bjergsoe’s own microbrewery Mikkeller and design bureau Femmes Régionales.
American fashion as always been a strange beast, not only to tame, but just to understand. The world’s biggest economy, spanning a vast continent of an incredibly diverse population, couldn’t be further from the upper-middle-class consumers of Europe, or the nouveau-riche clientele of the East. The most successful stories in American fashion consists of those that went to Europe (such as Proenza Schouler, Rick Owens) and those that went commercial: that is, into the world of mass-apparel. As the country’s most iconic brand Calvin Klein announces the departure of their Euro-chic creative director Raf Simons after only 18 months, is it time to reiterate the status quo of American fashion consumption? What is the future for our beloved CK?