Pierre Bergé, co-founder of French haute couture house Yves Saint Laurent passed away at age 86 in his south of France residence on September 2017. Bergé who met Yves Saint Laurent in 1958 on the first day the couturier was showing the Trapeze collection for Christian Dior. From that moment, he became the great eminence grise orchestrating Yves Saint Laurent’s career. In 1961, the pair founded their couture house, making it one of the most renown name in the world, helming it until Saint Laurent’s retirement in 2002.
Bergé acted as a true representative of French culture and a reputed philanthropist. He established the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent to conserve the couture house’s archive as well as promoting art pedagogically and supporting artist around the world. Bergé was also a fervent supporter of the Téléthon, a French TV’s event with aim to collect funds for AIDS research. He left us with two new museums dedicated to his soulmate Yves Saint Laurent. Pierre Bergé was a great man who cherished culture and humanity.
Words by Pierre M’Pelé
Unless you’ve been living under a stone for the past half a year, you’ve heard the gospel: DANSK is celebrating its 15th birthday, marking its achievements as the world’s most independent fashion magazine. As you can read in our current print issue, out worldwide, it’s been a journey of pain, sweat, and tears – but also of spectacular beauty, daring artistry, and lots and lots of fun. In particular, we’re proud of having spearheaded the ever-evolving search for new limits within fashion photography, a medium that was still in its infant stage when Uffe Buchard and Kim Grenaa emptied their piggy-banks and started a publication back in 2002. In the pages of DANSK, fashion has been represented, digested, and distorted through the photographic eye, discovering some of the biggest model’s of today on the way.
It’s New York Fashion Week! Once hailed as the absolute center of RTW, NYFW has in recent years taken a crumble – declared dead, even – as designers en masse have been seen fleeing the Big Apple. Naturally, then, Europe’s favorite enfant terrible and anti-designer Raf Simons chose this Trumpian moment to descend on America’s big city, and revitalize Americana in the most spectacular way through his role as new creative director for Calvin Klein. Without a doubt, Simons presented the best collection of FW17 – and now, time has come for the hard second collection. Don’t despair if your exclusive invite to the show (which last year counted celebs like Julianne Moore, Brooke Shields, and of course Anna Wintour) got lost in the mail – the whole affair can be streamed right here, from the comfort of your futon. Have your ice water ready for 8 pm EST.
In the age of abundant high-profile fashion collaborations, it’s paradoxically rare that we feel genuinely excited about one. Most often, they consist simply of brand cross-pollination, where my logo goes on your logo, to increase revenue – while little is actually “collaborated on” formally or aesthetically. The best collaboration is the kind where a brand gets access to new forms of design, production, and distribution – and this is certainly the case with OFF-WHITE’s latest collaboration, with shoe megalith Nike.
When it comes to fashion advertising, there’s nothing more refreshing than a visual palate cleanser: the kind of campaign that swipes blank the over-saturated slate of images and production cycles, and presents something drastically different and unconventional. This was exactly the effect that Bruce Weber produced when he emerged in the American fashion publishing scene in the late 1970s and early 80s; a fresh, optimistic, and all-American take on high editorial, like a Helmut Newton who had swapped out smoking for cardio and carrot juice. Weber’s campaigns for Calvin Klein in the 1990s have made one of the firmest imprints in the collective fashion psyche, and his style celebrated and copied to such an extent that it can feel ubiquitous. That is, until you see a Weber original: and this is the case in FRAME’s latest campaign.
The American fashion monolith Calvin Klein is responsible for some of the most iconic moments in the history of advertising – from a reclined 15 year-old Kate Moss to a bulge-grabbing Marky Mark, to Richard Avedon’s Brooke Shields in the 1980s. Earlier this year, the house once more succeeded in terms of hyped image circulation, with the launch of their new American Classics campaign, which saw youthful models in classic CK denim and underwear interjected in front of some of America’s most important works of modern art. Install photography gone meta? Self-consciously citing both worlds of art and fashion, it was a perfect intellectual move from vanguard new creative director Raf Simons, who was brought in to revitalize the American brand earlier this year. But with the launch of the campaign of the newly founded line CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC (a reference to the brand New York HQs), an addendum has now been added to the hyped series.