This weekend, all eyes were on Raf Simons, who had the honor not only to open New York Fashion Week (with a 10 AM show Thursday) but the whole fashion week season – New York being the first of the “big four” that includes Milan, Paris, and London. An astronomical amount of hype surrounded the event from the fashion press, buyers, and street style kids alike: what would be the future of American fashion? To which extent would the collection echo his own eponymous line, launching in NYC only a few days earlier? Could Simons reinvent minimalism in a time of logomania and sartorial collagism? As the last model exited the runway (in an audience that included Julianne Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker, Gwyneth Paltrow and A$AP Rocky), it seems like the quiet Belgian designer did exactly that – and still, something completely all together.
Only days before Raf Simons presents his new vision for Calvin Klein, the American mega-brand has already begun to unveil a distinctly new identity. First, Simons teamed up with stellar art director Peter Saville for a slight tweaking of the brand logo (an homage to past iterations, it seems) – and second, the release of the first advertising campaign.
It’s almost February! And thus, Copenhagen Fashion Week – and for the third time, four Hong Kong designers have chosen to showcase their collections in our native city. As the only Asian show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the multi-brand show Fashion Hong Kong invites for a kaleidoscoping view of contemporary Hong Kong fashion, including Kenax Leung and new faces Dora Chu, Kay Li and Vickie Au.
If you haven’t noticed, it’s menswear fashion week in Paris – a week of peacockery, male models, and lots and lots of amazing fashion. If for some reason you’re not in the City of Lights for this crucial event, praise the lord for the Internet, from where most things can be experienced. Even the front row, in fact – tomorrow, the 19 Jan at 2:30 PM (CEST), Louis Vuitton will livestream their AW17 show directly from Paris.
Who said advertising can’t be a space of politics? Kenzo‘s SS17 campaign celebrates nightclubbing, not just as a place for unabashed fun, but as “a powerful source of alternative energies against racism, sexual oppression and class violence.”
If Gosha Rubchinskiy plans to continue his current pace through the fashion world, it won’t be long before he reaches the brightest shining stars. The Russian designer fell into the field almost accidentally in 2008 when he started embroidering Fruit of the Loom t-shirts bought online with his Moscow skater-friends – in 2009, he was discovered by former Vogue Russia editor and put on schedule at Moscow Fashion Week. However, it was Adrian Joffe, entrepreneur of retail empire Dover Street Market and husband of Rei Kawabuko of Comme des Garçons, that instigated the full realization of the Rubchinskiy universe, as he stepped in as his business partner and producer a few seasons back. Lingering in a distinct romanticization of post-Soviet adolescence, counterfeit logomania, and skate culture, his local vision has mesmerized fashion insiders and streetwear fans alike all over the world, as his every move – like collaborations with sportswear brands Kappa, Supreme, Vans, Fila, and Reebok – are followed closely. This week offers two new stories to the Rubchinskiy chronicle: a collaboration with eyewear brand Retrosuperfuture, as well as an off-schedule runway showcase of his AW17 collection in his local Moscow.
DANSK’s man in London Pierre A.M. reports from London Fashion Week Mens.
The probability of hitting the bull’s-eye twice in a row is very low, even for a LVMH Prize winner. Whether there was a styling problem is a legitimate question when a collection leaves unexpected tepid thoughts in one’s mind. Although the casting was great, Wales Bonner’s autumn winter 2017 clothes weren’t. They were good enough, not great — except perhaps for a white fur and black leather cropped jacket, a splendid man-dress every girl should get, and a pair of tawny and black diamond-shape patterned trousers.