Danish fashion history is one still being written, as testified by the emerging generation of designers who are trying to break free from the shackles of Scandi simplicity. But no fashion history should be written without ample attention for fashion’s surrounding image-apparatus: photography occupies a very central role in the industry, also in the North. Regional fashion publishing has historically served as the mediator and link between consumers and international fashion houses, while the pages of the magazine constitutes the most important platform for fashion photographers to show their densest creative visions. Now, a new exhibition at Øksnehallen traces the history of Danish fashion photography for the first time ever.
In the middle of Europe’s current heatwave, it seems that we’re always looking for an excuse to take a plunge into the nearest body of water: be it a beach, your aunt’s swimming pool, or just a really big glass of chilled Chardonnay, we’re there, ready to take our clothes off. But the recent lookbook of Wanbing Huang gives us the chills equally: for her AW18 collection Soil Rebelle, the Chinese newcomer has released a stunning visual piece of storytelling in collaboration with photographer Leslie Zhang and styling by Audrey Hu.
In artist Joan Jonas’ work Double Lunar Rabbits (2010), currently on view at Tate Modern as part of her retrospective show, Jonas’ explores the image of the rabbit on the moon. In a two-channel video displayed on curved screens, a narrative built around Japanese and Aztec folklore unfolds: A God, living on Earth in the image of a man, is on a journey and eventually gets hungry and tired. With no food or water around, he is close to death when a rabbit grassing nearby offers to sacrifice itself to save his life. Touched by the rabbit’s selflessness, the God saves it and draws its image onto the moon. He tells it: “You may be just a rabbit, but everyone will remember you; there is your image in light, for all people and for all times.”
With long, thin ears and six straight whiskers; sometimes polka dotted or harlequin patterned; sometimes resembling a fish or a cat, a pear or a berry; sometimes up-side-down or sticking out from a smiling red mouth; if there is one rabbit the fashion world will always remember, it’s Peter Jensen‘s. Fun and iconic, the bunny is unarguably much more than a logo, claiming a near-mythical presence in and around the universe of the Danish-born, London-based designer.
All can acknowledge that clothes speak volumes. They tell you about the past, they comment on the now, they anticipate the future. A good fashion designer send clothes down the runway that say something. Nicolas Ghesquière’s clothes do that. Except, his clothes also catch you off guard. If they could speak, they’d say: “Nicolas is smarter than the rest of you!” or “You weren’t expecting that, were you?” For his cruise 2019 collection, he staged a show at the Fondation Maeght in the south of France, a museum with a remarkable collection of major 20th century artists. The show participated in shutting down rumours about his imminent ousting from Louis Vuitton, which the brand had addressed in a press release confirming his contract renewal.
Jonny Johansson of Acne Studios has continued to refine and advance his idiosyncratic approach to doing fashion: what started as 100 pair of jeans is now a global, multi-disciplinary aesthetic enterprise that through clothes, images, and experiences tell a story of Nordic romanticism, nostalgia, and humor. The most alluring part of the Swedish brand is perhaps its sincerity, and this shows no more than in their newest campaign for their collection of face motif apparel. We were blown away by their first campaign, which featured an Atlanta-based same-sex couple and their four adorable children in full Acne get-up – and for this drop, the brand continues their celebration of queer family configurations, with the inclusion of the Tasha Tilberg clan. An internationally renowned Canadian fashion model from the late 90s, Tasha Tilberg stepped away from the fashion scene in the 00s to raise her family in the Canadian countryside with her wife Laura Wilson. Their twins, Bowie and Gray, are now six, and together, they life life off-grid in tune with nature—which hardly couldn’t be in starker opposition to today’s fast-paced life in the city. “I am always fascinated by those people who move away from cities rather than to them,” Jonny stated about the project, which was shot shot by photographer Craig McDean. “They seem to gain something that I don’t have. That is inspiring. For me it is about connecting to nature; I find that feeling more and more rewarding.” The collection – which features sweaters, cardigans, and shoes in delightful summer colors – drops in stores today May 31st, alongside a free limited edition publication designed by M/M Paris featuring an exclusive interview with the couple.
In previous years, Louis Vuitton chief designer Nicolas Ghesquière has amazed with truly breathtaking and exotic locations for the French luxury brand’s annual Cruise collection – the Miho Museum in Kyoto, Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro count the latest two – but for the 2019 showcase, he’s going back to the brand roots with a show on the French Riviera. Thinking of the early history of luxury travel and cruise fashion, this makes perfect sense, and considering the brand’s recent obsession with spectacular architecture, they’ll surely be able to find a couple of desirable locations (the French Riviera was a prime location for modernist architecture in the 1920s and 30s). While the exact location still hasn’t been revealed just a few hours before the show, do not despair: we’ve got you covered. You can livestream the whole affair right here on DANSK, starting May 28th 7:15 pm European Time. Just click below. You’re welcome!
In just a matter of days, Copenhagen opens one of its biggest and most anticipated art events of 2018, ALT_CPH. The historic festival gathers artist-run spaces from across Europe in a fair-like format in South Copenhagen’s FABRIKKEN for Kunst og Design, and offers a dense plethora of ideas, expressions, and positions in a easily digestible format. With this edition curated by the Danish artist/curator duo Anna and Esben Weile Kjær, the focus is on performance, which despite its long history in avant-garde art milieus across Europe, is experiencing a revival within a young, internet-savy generation of practitioners (including artists and collectives like YOUNG GIRL READING GROUP, Maja Malou Lyse, and Tabita Rezaire). Just as it did in the 1970s, performance seems today as a radical alternative to the money-driven, blue-chip international art market, and it is exactly this notion – the alternative – that is up for examination by the Kjærs and their collaborators this coming weekend. Even the merchandise, designed by SOUVENIR Studio, speculates this burning question: what is the future of the alternative?
Andy Warhol’s Interview is no more—its last days mired in office evictions, masthead resignations, and a pending slew of six-figure lawsuits. But as unfortunate as the fate to befall magazine publishing’s Downtown darling may be, it is but an minor scuff on the gleaming legacy that it now leaves behind. We take a moment to look back at one of the most radical titles in modern publishing history.
Since her departure from the fashion program at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and launch of her namesake fashion line, Danish designer Freya Dalsjø has wedded the the highest tailoring techniques with the most contemporary silhouettes and color tones, pervaded by a deconstructionist spirit that address her garments’ own material history. Sustainability is not only about using natural materials, but about producing garments locally with a certain longevity – and Dalsjø’s eye for timeless quality is unmistakable. Yet the designer has never made a fuzz about her sustainable production ethos, but her alluring new capsule collection with top model Lindsey Wixson addresses this head-on.
Danish menswear brand Soulland is one of the biggest success stories in Scandinavian fashion of the past decade. Founded by autodidact Silas Adler, who began his design career by making home-made t-shirt prints back in 2002, the brand has become a household name in the wardrobe of many men in the Nordic region and beyond, their simple, street-savvy aesthetic resonating with teenagers and CEOs alike. Having presented at both Copenhagen Fashion Week and London Collections Men, Soulland has realized notable collaborations with the likes of Nike, as well as countless artists and designers, particularly in their long-standing commitment to merging fashion with the graphic arts. Now, the Copenhagen brand is ready to embark on a new adventure with the announcement of their expansion to womenswear as of this month.