Luxury is forever – and this statement has gained a political dimension in the discussion of sustainable fashion in recent years. Fashion and its related industries is the most polluting industry in the world after oil, but this is more than anything an issue of attitude towards clothes: cheap and so-called fast fashion has made us buy garments almost as disposables. Perfumes are no different – every year, elaborately designed perfume bottles are disposed with no or very little opportunity for recycling, forcing the consumer to generate even more waste.
Innovation is a crucial element of sustainable fashion: pushing boundaries in terms of production and distribution is where the real ecological leaps take place. And we’re not just talking about fake fur or organic cotton, but a complete re-invention of the materials that feature in our everyday garments and accessories such as leather, nylon, and other synthetics. Swedish shoewear brand recently raised the ante with the re-launch of their classic menswear design Paul in Cherry Wood, which, as the name suggests, is produced in FSC certified, sustainable cherry wood.
An observant critic once claimed that “it’s always fashion week somewhere” – regardless if this is true, there’s certainly no reason to despair between fashion week seasons. Film has long been a cherished medium of fashion, capturing the social, aesthetic, and political histories that clothes possess, then and today. Copenhagen, who is famous for its other prestigous film festivals CPH:DOX, CPH:PICS, and the LGBTQ MIX Copenhagen, boasts as one of the only cities in the world a whole festival dedicated to fashion film, and today, on April 18th, they open for an exciting week of epic fashion through the moving image.
In these days the ninth season of RuPauls Drag Race is aired on VH1. The show drew almost a million viewers to the premiere and once again did not fail to surprise when Ronnie from New Jersey turned out to be Lady Gaga in disguise. “Drag for me has been an opportunity to leave myself when I didn’t wanted to be me” Gaga told the contestants after revealing herself and reminded us of the fact that drag isn’t about imitation but about creating a space to explore and challenge the confinements of gender and identity. London based photographer Niko Mitrunen has examined the transformation process in drag art through an ongoing series of photos portraying club kids in Helsinki.
People say that Danish designer, musician, and artist Henrik Vibskov applied to notorious fashion school Central St. Martins because he was in love. We can only thank God that his design career has far exceeded his adolescent crush, as he now figures as the absolute biggest vanguard talent within our native borders. In the past two decades, Vibskov has created over 30 collections for both genders, and has championed the realms of dance, music, theatre, and performance with his idiosyncratic and conceptual vision. His career as an artist has resulted in several solo shows at some of the most established exhibition spaces in the country, and he is the only Scandinavian member of the French Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine. His year-long love affair with Paris will manifest next month in a spectacular retrospective at the Maison du Danemark, as the Danish cultural center gives carte blanche to the visionaire to look back at his practice across all media. From mint forests to boob seas, undoubtedly, it will be an installation cosmological in nature – so don’t miss, should you be in the city of love.
The past two years have seen a multitude of fashion collaborations, some more exciting than others. We recall Vêtements and Juicy Couture’s polyester tracksuits retailing for $2000, H&M and Kenzo’s colourful blast, Christopher Kane’s fabulous Crocs, and Gosha Rubchinkiy’s Adidas Football collection.
With his sculptural sensibility, understanding of urbanity, and keen interest in breaking down the sartorial divisions of gender, fashion designer JW Anderson has in just a few years become a key figure of his time. From the helm of his own eponymous fashion lines, and as the creative director of Spanish fashion house Loewe, the North Irish genius continues to expand how we think of clothes and fashion in a more abstract and much more exciting way. The most recent addition to this expansive project is an exhibition at the Yorkshire art gallery The Hepworth Wakefield
Cora Hilts and Natasha Tucker are the founders of Rêve En Vert, an online retailer of sustainable luxury clothing and beauty. The company was founded in 2013 and dealing with fashion without compromising neither sustainability nor style has been key ever since. It is no secret that the fashion industry has a devastating impact on the planet, and production processes and conditions are often opaque. In a world where a lot of things have to change, Rêve En Vert is driven by an activistic energy crucial to pulling not only the fashion industry in another direction. Hilts and Tucker show that it is possible to be featured in Vogue all while offering delivery by bicycle and publishing activist text pieces on the urgency of more sustainable living. We had a talk with Cora Hilts to learn more.
In the fast-paced milieu of Internet-infused popular culture, music videos are having a resurgence: easily sharable, they travel through our networks and pop up as fragmented audiovisual fashion spreads. Music videos have always been a treasured medium for fashion (think Kylie, Gwen, Rihanna, and the ultra music video queen, Madonna) – and this tradition lives today across mass, sub- and popular culture. Here’s 3 of our current favorites: