Creative Director Uffe Buchard – Fashion CoordinatorLine Dalgaard – Make-up Kolbrun Ran – Tomorrow Management
Hair Marianne Jensen – Hair Assistant Linh Nguyen – Production Assistant Julie Poulsen – Talent Clara McNair – Unique Models
How does a beauty brand take over the fashion world? Contrary to what you might think, high-profile fashion week sponsorships and celebrity endorsements are not the only thing that grabs the attention of the industry– particular when its members prioritize quality, style, and aesthetic sensibility. Aesop embodies all of these elusive qualities, and in the last decade, the Australian beauty company has slowly taken over as the treasured label of the creative industry. From their lush body soaps and face serums, to their cheeky “post-poo”-drops and truly luxurious animal shampoo, Aesop is a total aesthetic solution to the maintenance of your body. Add to this an subtle design profile, a slow growth model and a long-standing love affair with next-level interior architecture, and you’ve got a real recipe of success. But how did a small beauty range launched by a Melbourne hairdresser in the late 80s become a global sensation? We sat down with Suzanne Santos, the brand’s general manager who has been overseeing its steady growth since the very beginning.
While the rest of the global North moves one inch closer to SAD every day, the global art elite is partying in Florida. Yes, it’s that time of the year: Miami Basel. The only time when you’ll see the world’s most famous art critics queue up in the same bar as guest stars of Keeping up with the Kardashians. An art heaven, Miami has in recent years become a treasured spot for fashion and design events, who see the point in promoting their projects on a small peninsula packed with HNWIs. What not to miss this year, beyond the art fair itself? A few tips below!
As the European fashion week scene faces its trinity days between S/S and F/W 2019 shows, a young but impactful fashion event has just taken place for the third time in Calgary, Alberta. Not only does this event present us to talented designers and new collections, it also challenges our ideas of what a fashion week is and can be. The Otahpiaaki Indigenous Beauty, Fashion and Design Week was founded three years ago at the Mount Royal University in Calgary AB, Canada. The idea came from a group of young, female fashion students, and the first show took place in the hallway of the business school. Last year the project had matured and gone from two designers in one night to fifteen designers from fifteen different nations spread over three nights of fashion. A few weeks ago, the third event was held in City Hall, Calgary, with returning artists as well as sixteen new designers. The show isn’t dictated by international fashion rules, but build on a Black Foot world view. And so Otahpiaaki is more than three days of spotlights and runway walking. A research unit of students and professors, indigenous and non-indigenous people are working together on various projects associated with the event, with the common aim to decolonize the runway. A few months ago DANSK met up with Mount Royal professor and co-founder of the event, Patricia May-Derbyshire, to learn more.
The current dynamics of the fashion industry – increasingly manifesting online – are producing perfect habitats for young labels with a great creative potential to reach a global market. With an avant-garde aesthetic, Ximon Lee has spawned a distinct profile in just a few years, with each collection emerging from in-depth research. Before XIMONLEE, and even before finishing his degree at Parsons Design School in New York, Ximon won Parsons Menswear Designer of the Year Award with his graduation collection. Further still, he went on to win the H&M Design Award, garnering international attention. He’s known for making avant-garde wearables, brilliant craftsmanship, and critically exploring important topics such as cultural heritage and senses of belonging. Creativity and authenticity often lose their value as a brand begins to grow. What does it take, then, to be part of an international form of cultural production that constantly struggles between being a from of art or being labeled as mere branding? Ximon Lee has been through all these different stages within his short but impressive career. This provided him with an unique experience that created XIMONLEE, where his knowledge of a consumer driven market is combined with an belief in high-concept design. Thus, his garments are characterised by an interplay of exaggerated shapes that are not assigned to a certain gender. His work imposes a constant exchange of traditional refinement and context with a postmodern philosophy that deconstructs the purpose and aesthetic of the pieces. It’s always discussed what fashion should be, could become. Today, young fashion’s biggest hurdle is facing the increasingly corporatized industry, where conglomerates sit heavily on the market. What is the right way to sustain a fashion brand? DANSK had the opportunity to meet with Ximon in Shanghai to get a glimpse into the label that is not easily put in a box, lead by a tremendous design talent and a global citizen.
Contrary to popular belief, “Scandi chic” does not hail from the DNA of the Nordic people – in fact, we have a generation of designers to thank from that, most of all Filippa K. For 25 years, the Stockholm label have been produced effortlessly chic and comfortable clothing that feels seasonless and timeless – factors that are important not only for great taste, but a sustainable wardrobe. Having long been an upper high-street favorite (the brand boasts 50 brand stores around the world), it is indeed sustainability that has become Filippa K’s new point of pride, radically transforming the way they produce, distribute and recycle clothing, while aiming for a 100% sustainable collection by 2030. Earlier this year, the brand saw the return of their founder and creative director Filippa Knutsson to steer its creative future. What’s life like at 25? Find our conversation below.
The latest addition to Paris’ revived young fashion scene is ioannes, the near-eponymous brand by the recent Central Saint Martins graduate Johannes Boehl Cronau. Born in Germany, but trained in the fashion capitals of Paris, Antwerp and London, Cronau has in just a few seasons displayed a confident know-how of constructing contemporary female silhouettes that evoke emotion, timelessness and surprisingly technical attention to detail. His SS19 collection, ‘Walz’, gathers nostalgia, tradition and past-time habits to present a collection which honors skill, patience and the female form – inspired by the figure of the flâneuse, the collection wanders maturely through a variety of narrative threads, effortlessly pairing wearability with couture detailing. What began as a video installation post-grad is now an ambitious womenswear label on the rise – we caught up with ioannes to discuss his recent move to Paris and navigating today’s fashion industry.
Autumn is art and travel season, and we might as well combine the two. For this, we have gathered the top 5 exhibitions that will run this fall in Europe, and since they are all equally exquisite we suggest that you spare yourself the trouble of choosing and simply visit all five.
Nigerian-British fashion designer Tokyo James is part of a new wave of multicultural creatives that challenges the visual perception of Africa. Born and raised in London, James studied mathematics at university before dedicating himself to fashion. Since then, the young designer has been navigating through the industry, first making a name for himself as a stylist. The young designer’s latest collection focuses on sharp, innovative tailoring in an attempt to rewrite the traditional men’s wardrobe. Pierre A. M’Pelé caught up with the young designer to discuss his brand, his customers and his story.
History is only cemented when it is written down; and for fashion, which so often is dismissed as fleeting and ephemeral, the importance of historical writing cannot be overstated. Furthermore, when fashion’s histories are recounted it is often limited to that of its central capitals and epicenters such as Paris, Milan and New York; as a result, little effort is made to preserve the sartorial narratives of other regions – including the Nordic region! Thank God then, for this newly published lexicon of everything Danish fashion, edited by the fashionable Copenhagenites, designer Mads Nørgaard and CEO Anne Christine Persson.