SS18 was a fashion season that saw an unusual amount of nostalgia on the runway, particularly focusing on the hedonistic hey-days of 70s and 80s club culture. At Diane Von Fürstenberg, creative director Jonathan Saunders presented a party-infused party in homage to the brand’s creator, who was a mainstay in the booming New York disco scene – a far cry from today’s highly regulated city space, where Trump looms like a giant rain cloud over personal freedom and expression. “It’s nostalgia for a time when freedom of expression was at its height, especially here in New York, and for me that’s something to be inspired by,” Saunders said – echoing the general mood of the season, also expressed at Anna Sui, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, and Coach. Across the pond, Parisian luxury house Saint Laurent has been championing nostalgia party aesthetics ever since Hedi Slimane was brought in to re-boot the brand in 2012. If Slimane, previously at Dior Homme, spearheaded a decisively heroin chic, the house under the Italian-Belgian Anthony Vaccarello reads very much as Paris nightlife before the drugs – as exemplified in their most recent fashion campaign, directed by super-duo Inez & Vinoodh. To the sound of New Order’s Blue Monday, we encounter a glitzy squad partying on a roof-top in feathered dresses and club-kid make-up. While we can’t claim to have looked as groomed when we ventured to Rex in 1989, it sure does make us miss the 80s. A life before the internet, before Trump, where the future seemed brighter.
For more information, see Yves Saint Laurent