Dansk Magazine spend a hectic half an hour backstage at the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2014/15 show, held at the old mail sorting room in the NYC Post office building on Tuesday, during New York fashion week. Apart from the huge make-up and hair teams of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau – and the toughest looking cast of top models of the moment, fronted by Australian wonder Julia Nobis – the first thing to hit my eyes backstage, was all the miniature metal discs sewn on to different kinds of materials hanging on the rails.
The whole area literally lit up like a clear night sky full of stars. Were we going to space? Turns out we were! A closer look at astronaut inspired, silver-sparkling parka coats and slim, low-cut pants made me realize that Norwegian designer Andreas Melbostad was taking us far, far out into the stratosphere and thereby giving the normal DNA of the brand a bit of an extra kick. Well, why not? After all, this is the third collection he designs for the brand, and things are obviously starting to take shape. Sure, there was plenty of leather and denim on the racks as you would expect, but denim was mostly laminated, lacquered or decorated with rubber, and leather often had an amazingly effective metallic finish that instantly made me think of old sci-fi movies I saw as a kid, or futuristic space fashion from the 60ies. It may all sound a bit tacky to you, but actually Melbostad got the balance between the hardboiled Diesel Black Gold rock chick and the space invader just right, and the whole thing never became forced. Most of the models wore flat pointy boots decorated with metal toecaps that would make the 80ies version of Michael Jackson wish he could still dance – and moonwalk! The boots had the effect that the girls looked like urban power-women and the footwear worked really well as a contrast paired with some of the miniskirts that nearly had a schoolgirl kinda romantic vibe going on. The pants – cut slim and low to the point of naughty – signaled the opposite. Rock, anarchism, control. Ehmmm…and sex! And really, that is part of the Diesel Black Gold story. These are not boring girls for sure!
After the show I asked the designer if he could define the Diesel Black Gold girl for me. ”It’s all about the attitude of the girl to me” he replied. ”I like my girls to be tough, comfortable and definitely also empowered by what they wear. My girls are strong!” Ok, but only few of them get to be astronauts and – frankly – what Sandra Bullock wore in the current Hollywood hit movie Gravity never looked too sharp to me. I had to ask Melbostad how he got the idea to infuse the brand’s DNS with a bit of space oddity. ”I always loved astronauts suites even since I was a kid, and I did some research into 60ies and even 90ies versions of it”. He goes on ”I ended up creating some sort of retro futuristic collection, but in a very optimistic way”.
When the huge metallic door slammed to the ground (us sitting near by jumping several centimeters off the bench) and Julia Nobis, wearing a metallic parka coat, slim pants and pointy boots, walked fast towards the photographers lenses to the beat of Daft Punks Revolution 909, I was not in doubt – Mr. Melbostad has taken full control over the brand!
Words by Uffe Buchard – Editor in chief
Follow me on Instagram @uffebuchard
Image courtesy of DANSK by Stephanie Stål