With the mission to give credit where credit’s due, fashion’s very own vigilante, the anonymous someone behind the account @dietprada, continues to unceremoniously reveal copycats in the industry – this season with even sharper claws. With an active community of 28k followers and some of the best hashtags the Internet has ever seen, (#justchangeitalittle, #pushthesleevesupabit #gotthosemargieladiscoballsleevestoo), this account has become one of the most important voices in fashion. By placing one current runway look next to a suspiciously similar predecessor, they highlight the fact that copying both other designers and artist is not at all unusual. Quite the opposite: ripping off is common procedure for renowned fashion houses and newbies alike.
Still alive? Fashion week season is coming to a close, and thank god for that, says your liver, your anxiety, and your credit card. It’s been an eventful season with many highs and lows, so we can’t wait to end on a high note with Balenciaga Sunday. What is Demna’s predictions for Summer 2018? Get into your pink velvet “fuck-me” boots, live-stream, and find out right here, tomorrow at 11:30 CET.
September 29th at 9.30 am
True luxury is, in essence, about excess: the abundance of stuff that you don’t really need to survive, and being able to afford the time to use them. We have to admit that if the Internet and the smart phone revolution has been good for anything, it’s been for navigation and travel: gone are the days of skitzophrenically navigating the streets of Venice with some €20 tourist map, or tirelessly carrying around your friend’s chewed-up Lonely Planet guide to South India because you were too stingy to get a copy of your own. The age of Yelp indeed seems to have displaced the art of travel guide publishing, which is exactly why it’s an opulent statement to revive it. And what better aid than Louis Vuitton? The seasoned French fashion and accessory house have been the absolute leaders of stylish travel gear since their founding in 1854 in Paris, so it was a welcomed gesture when they extended their Parisian sensibilities beyond how you pack, to aid you around the world in where to eat, sleep, shop, and party. Responding to the fast-changing nature of the world and its cities, 9 of the 29 Louis Vuitton City Guides have recently been subject to an update, with the new publications guiding you through the cities of Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Peking, Berlin, Milano and Sydney anno 2018. And don’t worry, young one, if you’ve been permanently damaged and must absolutely consume all information through the digital screen: they all come in digital editions, compatible with your Iphone.
It was a different 20th anniversary Angela Missoni was celebrating in Milan. Indeed, she has been the creative force behind Missoni’s colourful optimism. When one thinks of Missoni, an array of hues and patterns comes to mind, and a feeling of joy that is unmatched in fashion. The house, founded in 1953 by the designer’s parents, invites us all to have fun next summer.
The year 2017 marks the 20th anniversary of the savage murder of Gianni Versace, on the steps of his Miami home on July 15th, 1997. Gianni Versace is the man who revolutionised fashion and haute couture altogether by means of lust and extravaganza. For the past 20 years, Donatella Versace, the creative heir of the Versace empire has put into practice all that she’s learnt at her brother’s side (the pair worked closely and the little sister oversaw Versus Versace’s collections). Sometimes she hits the bull’s eye, sometimes she doesn’t, but she always leaves people with a clear idea of what Versace stands for. Donatella being obsessed with “looking and pushing forward!” she had never looked at the archive of the house since Gianni’s passing away – even her S/S 2008 collection, which marked the 10th anniversary of Gianni’s demise didn’t hint to the past. But with the S/S 18 collection, Donatella confirmed that Gianni lives through her.
On the second stop of International Fashion Month, we’ve reached the British Isles, currently subject to quite a bit of political and social upheaval. Brexit and the disastrous fire at Greenfell Towers have proved that Thatcher-era English class politics are still in abundance in the UK, but as it’s been proved before, it’s exactly in moments of political crisis that fashion is the most interesting. As noted by several fashion editors in the past week, identity politics seem to be the most visible theme amongst London’s fashion designers, bringing forth and celebrating the ethnic diversity that London long has prided itself for championing. With the outcome of Brexit still looming indefinably over the country’s garment industry, it’s an uncertain time to do business, yet designers (small and large) are using this moment to assert their continued relevance on the global stage. Fear not if you missed out – we’ve collected all the best bits.
(And) as we look at jewelry design, one of the last perceived gendered bastions in the creative industry, there are two German women turning the thought of jewelry fitting to the body into an idea of jewelry fitting on the body – on any body, using the shapes and movements, skin and muscles as canvas to create a fine and very sensual decor to be worn and explored with an open mindset. Räthel & Wolf, with its designers Sari and Ricarda, are deconstructing a rather conservative approach towards jewelry and how it’s supposed to be embellishing the body, collaborating with artists from various disciplines and confronting their audience by making them rethink structure and beauty, while adding context and craftsmanship as their main characteristics. Their collection, which launched recently at London Fashion Week, proposes a fresh attempt towards jewelry design, making you rethink the ordinary and expand your curiosity. The rather young brand employs a playful and very open minded palette of influences that lifts them far beyond “just jewelry”. It is alluring and intelligent, putting the individual perception of beauty and sensuality in focus. As minimalistic and simple the pieces seem, their application and meaning are ranging spectacularly versatile.
Few designers in the Nordic region can claim a longevity as that of Charlotte Eskildsen, founder and creative director of Designers Remix. What started as an impromptu recycled design scheme within the fashion behemoth IC Companys quickly grew into a full-fleshed RTW brand, characterized by Eskildsen’s joy of making and an insistent focus on pulled-back, simple elegance. 15 years and several diffusion lines later, Designers Remix is sold in over 40 countries, and continues to lead the way as one of the Nordic region’s biggest success stories within contemporary fashion. To mark the anniversary (which coincides with our own), we sat down with Eskildsen to discuss the ins and out of fashion business, the importance of independence, and a vision for the future.