Diesel Black Gold menswear show AW2015/16 Milan
When I was a teenager (we’re in the late 1980s) I spent some time in Australia, where – unlike in my home country of Denmark – I was required to wear a school uniform of the conservative variety. We’re talking blue jackets with emblems, shorts, and knee socks, and worst of all, a stupid straw hat. Not exactly appropriate for a budding rebel – a Duran Duran fan with primly styled punk hair – in his worst age, for whom the most important thing in the world was leaving a striking and personal visual expression. Needless to say, the uniform became the object of quite a bit of homemade customizing and bizarre accessories (safety pins are both cheap and effective), letting the teenager behind the uniform shine through. Often, I would make excuses for not wearing the mandatory unseemly uniform pants. Instead, I added ripped jeans to the uniform ensemble – the result was actually quite chic – to the great annoyance of the school’s head teacher, who did, in the end, find mercy and attempted to understand the freedom I was coming from. All ended well, and I became the school’s style guru numero uno.
On Sunday morning, at the Diesel Black Gold show during Milan Fashion Week, I had the craziest flashback to my teen years at the school in Melbourne. The runway models were styled exactly in the somewhat anarchist fashion I had made use of back then. Even the hair was the same. Here, fractions of school uniforms were taken into a loving rebel treatement with chains and safety pins. There was English tweed with a twist of punk, zippers, checks, denim, lots of effective layering, and then my – MY – super-skinny ripped jeans. It was my look from those years, brought back to the surface and reinterpreted 30 years later by the Norwegian designer Andreas Melbostad. Perhaps he’s in possession of a picture of me from back then? Perhaps he, too, was a fan of Duran Duran, Sex Pistols, and Thomson Twins? Perhaps he, too, revolted against conformity…? It certainly looked like it! And it worked for me. I wanted it all one more time – only in a 2015 edition with sublime qualities and perfect cuts a la London’s Saville Row. The collection hit it right on the mark, striking a balance between flawless English tailoring, rebellious punk charm, and “I’m in the band” sexiness. So maybe I have gotten older since “Wild Boys”… but the style still does it.
Images courtesy of Diesel / www.diesel.com
The NYFW Fall 2014 is one to remember. Sure, all the collections were great, but most of all we will remember this one for the icy cold weather that had us wear warm practical clothes (urghh!) all day and not all our hot new Spring designer goodies that we had actually packed into our Louis Vuitton’s. Well, never mind, we can wear all that in Paris later!
Dansk Magazine spend a hectic half an hour backstage at the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2014/15 show, held at the old mail sorting room in the NYC Post office building on Tuesday, during New York fashion week. Apart from the huge make-up and hair teams of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau – and the toughest looking cast of top models of the moment, fronted by Australian wonder Julia Nobis – the first thing to hit my eyes backstage, was all the miniature metal discs sewn on to different kinds of materials hanging on the rails.
It is January, but during the Paris mens shows it was Springtime outside. Although the Autumn/Winter 2014 collections from the best designers were shown, also the clothes on the catwalk had a happy, humorous, easy and positive feel.
Designers this season are creating collections based on the same popular trends – sport, art, military, oversize – as the last couple of seasons, but each desinger somehow manages to make these themes their own by injecting excactly the right dose of their individual dna.
One of the ”brands of the moment” is definately Valentino. Their new amazingly beautyful menswear boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré opened just days ago and really – for us the Valentino brand totally catches the Zeitgeist of the modern man. Luxurious but easy. We – at least – could have taken everything in the store home with us. Frankly, that does not happen very often. Thumps up for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli!
Here are some of the key trends we saw during our few days in Paris.
If you were alive in the 70ties chances are that you know one of the firs international hip fashion brands hailing from Denmark – Margit Brandt. The brand was hugely popular with the upbeat style crowd of the 70´ties and 80´ties from New York to Saint Tropez. When Margit Brandt reinvented itself as a highstreet brand a few years ago it had intstant succes. Now the brand from 1965 has teamed up finacially with Kopenhagen Fur – the famed Copenhagen based fur auction house that delivers 80% of the Worlds finest mink fur. Quite a different kind of cooporation we must say. How the luxury fur company and the high street brand will manage to have a long and loving relationship remains to be seen over the next few seasons. Stay tuned for updates here.
Image courtesy of Margit Brandt / www.margitbrandtstore.dk
André Leon Talley has been Anna Wintours sidekick for years. 30 to be precise. An od couple in every way, but hey…it has worked. André – now in his mid 60ties – has apperantly grown up and is stepping out on his own. And that means an au revoir to Anna-she-who-rules-all and Vogue US. Mr Talley will work for the Russian edition of Numéro as editor at large in the future and rumour has it that he will also have his own talkshow on Ameriacan TV very soon. We loved André as a judge in Americas next Top Model, so we can’t wait to see him as a talk show host. Wicked!
We at DANSK like to be prepared and not do everything at the last minute. So right after Paris fashion week (and that last party we should never have gone to) we went back to Copenhagen and got to work on the next issue - DANSK AW13 – which will be out in time for the next round of fashion weeks around the globe. Here is a tiny little peek at what we were doing the other day with our new Danish model obsession, Charlie! Yum, non?
Image courtesy of DANSK / Charlie at Unique Models / www.unique.dk
Ok…this shoe is not made of glass, but at least it looks like it. If I was a girl I would go and get my toenails done and walk into Spring with this feminine shoe.
Image courtesy of DANSK / www.valentino.com
Paris fashion week fall winter 2013 was all about taking chances on one hand and staying safe on the other. It was therefore a very dualistic experience. We – obviously – want to welcome the fact that some designers feel that the time is right for some fall fashion that is actually pushing the boundaries.
We love the new calf length even though it’s not for everyone to wear. We love the very structured oversize vibe that is going on, which is definitely going to be refined next season. We love that whole relaxed 90’s grunge feeling, which seems to work well as a contrast to the couture-ish turn Paris has been taking the last couple of seasons. Having said that we are quite sick of models looking as if they just got out of bed… Please, give the girls a Mason Pearson brush.
The model everybody is raving about these days is British Cara Delevingne – here seen at the Burberry show in London yesterday. Could she be the next Kate Moss…?
Image courtesy of DANSK