The most exciting thing about New York fashion right now is undoubtedly its youngsters – while big names choose not to show or move their presentation elsewhere, there’s a flourishing of young talents in and around the downtown scene of the Big Apple – read our investigation into the scene in the latest issue of DANSK. Fashion brand Vaquera qualifies as one of the clearest voices in this milieu: the design collective has in only a few years positioned themselves as prominent voices, known for their humor-infused investigations into the history of American dress – from Southern Christian school to quilted Americana. For their AW show, the quartet presented a surrealist take on the early 00s New York, the time when the designers were mere teenagers: a kind of middle-brow Upper East Side consumerism that included a Vaquerafied Tiffany’s & Co. logos-as-pouch dress, a strategy that brings a smile on one’s face despite lacking any form of orginality (Vetements & Co have exhausted this logomanic trend in just a matter of seasons). The real stroke of geniuous was the team’s study of the underbelly of this aesthetic, namely, its workers: through dresses, aprons, and shirts, restaurant workwear was renegotiated, satirized, and elevated to something very chic. Finish off with a gigantic ball-gown in The Star-Spangled Banner, and you got yourself a sartorial critique of Trump’s America, a condition of political urgency that is forcing all creatives, from art to fashion, to reconsider their work in this world. Vaquera is still young, social media-savy, slightly naïve in their expression – but if AW17 pointed to anything, it was a higher devotion to research and garment construction.
For more information, see Vaquera