JORDANLUCA is a London based contemporary menswear brand launched by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto.
While most of the world’s civilization is clinging on to their TV screens to catch another round of soccer, tennis, or biking (honestly, what is going on!?), we fashion folks are way busier parsing through the latest couture news from Paris. Following reports from the world’s leading critics, it seems like a promising season for the fashion of all fashion, with bold visions presented at houses like Valentino, Christian Dior, and Iris van Herpen. Across the board were strokes of pure genius, be it with uncompromising pattern cutting, strong conceptualisms, innovative use of technology, or the purest elegance. In an industry more and more frequently critiqued for its dis-concern with quality and craftsmanship, its comforting to see that many houses still haven’t lost interest in haute couture with all its out-of-this-world ambition. Our favorite is, still, John Galliano at Maison Margiela, who since launching the ‘Artisanal’ line has revived a sartorial phantasmagoria not seen since the early days of Galliano himself. Anyway, here are some of our favorite moments, presented in no particular order.
As far as Scandinavian furniture design goes, there’s nothing more enduring and appealing than the work of Børge Mogensen. The cornerstone of the “Danish Modern” generation, Mogensen was a true visionary, maintaining a persistent search for perfect and form throughout his career across object and furniture design, which provided us with a wealth of interior classics. Most famously, he introduced the world to The Spanish Chair – a true archetype of modern furniture. Realized in solid wood and saddle leather, Mogensen conceived of this reclined, clunky, broad-framed structure on a trip to Spain in 1958, where he encountered Andalusian influences in furniture – particularly, traditional chairs with wide armrests, which proved a practical resting place for a glass or an ashtray. Presenting the chair in Copenhagen that same year with manufacturer Fredericia, it became an instant success among the Nordic Bourgeouise: so much so that 60 years later, you’ll still find it in any good home in the Nordic region. It’s contrasting elements between solid wood and leather feels more contemporary than ever, and looking around the landscape of contemporary interior design, it’s hard to play down the hype around Les Danois. To mark this victorious contribution to the canon of Danish design, Fredericia recently announced the release of a special edition of the chair featuring leather in an ambient Olive Green – one of Mogensen’s favorite hues, sourced from his archives. A swanky upgrade to a true classic, available only for a short amount of time – what’s not to love?
This season more than ever, all eyes were on Paris. In early 2018, LVMH designers were tossed around in an attempt to accommodate Hedi Slimane’s arrival. Indeed, Céline would have most likely been in direct competition with Dior Homme by Kris Van Assche – who was discovered by Slimane – so the Belgian designer had to exit after 11 years. Kim Jones left Louis Vuitton, tasked with insufflating novelty to a brand that was otherwise running around in circles. Van Assche took over Berluti from Haider Ackermann and then the announcement was made: Virgil Abloh would be heading to Louis Vuitton. Aaahh! Forces were put in place to compete with Kering’s exponential growth thanks to Gucci and Saint Laurent.
Not unlike the chapter in Gone With the Wind where Scarlett O’Hara makes a robe out of Tara’s green velvet curtains, Victoria Ladefoged’s grandmother used to transform old drapes into stunning dresses. The drapes were leftovers from the bookstore she owned, and Victoria reminisces her elegantly wearing them around the shop. Both her grandmother and mom were efficient sewers; turning drapes into dresses wasn’t done out of need, but because the fabric was nice and on hand. Working with textiles that haven’t just been cut off a fabric role was something the Danish fashion designer grew up with, and remains the area in which she excels today. For almost a decade, Ladefoged has collaborated with DFD (United Danish Steam Laundries) where she utilises used aprons and bed sheets and incorporates them into her garments. With strong design vision and state-of-the-art tailoring skills, she has created a brand in a league of its own – so much so that this year, Ladefoged was awarded the innovation prize at Harbin Fashion Week in China. We met up with the idiosyncratic designer to learn more about her unique universe.
Belgian visual artist Pierre Debusschere is no stranger to the fashion world. Having worked for several high-profile clients that include Raf Simons, Vogue, Dazed & Confused, Nowness, Numéro, AnOther Magazine and two music videos for Beyoncé, the director, photographer and curator continues to make an international name for himself by letting his imagination run wild through the use of photography, video and technology. Debusschere launched his career at Dazed & Confused in 2008, and shortly after, he was invited to work with Nicola Formichetti on ground-breaking digital content for Vogue Hommes Japan and Dior Homme. This summer, the cross-disciplinary visionary has teamed up with hyped sunwear brand KOMONO, the brainchild of fellow Belgian designers Anton Janssens and Raf Maes.