You take master photographer Glen Luchford, a 70s film set, throw in a bunch of aliens, robots, schlock film effects, and some fabulous Italian high fashion – and what do you have? Gucci’s F/W campaign. Creative director Alessandro Michele continues his nostalgic take on the seasoned Italian brand’s jet set past, this time by digging into all your favorite (or dreaded) sci-fi references of the 1970s. Who knew that an insect-looking monster could sell ready-to-wear? In the land of Gucci, everything is possible, it seems – check for yourself right here.
Johannes Boehl Cronau is a young German fashion designer who graduated from the prestigious MA Course at Central Saint Martins in 2017. Prior to successfully attending Central Saint Martins, Johannes had studied fashion design at Parsons in Paris and cut his teeth at Haider Ackermann where he received invaluable creative and technical knowledge. Johannes has now launched his own label fuelled with a rare sense of Parisian elegance, Anglo-Saxon pragmaticism, and the traces of research trips to Japan, the Middle East and Italy. On September 30th of 2017, Johannes presented his debut collection ‘a thing to wear’ under his moniker, IOANNES. Although it is a S/S18 collection, we have an eye on the black puffer jacket, and for good reason as the piece is the first to make it to the brand’s permanent collection, a signature garment that will evolve with the brand. We sent our Man About London Town Pierre A. M’Pelé try it on: “It’s hygge for your body!” he promptly exclaimed. IOANNES has definitely provided us with a piece we’d love to snuggle into this winter, and the following one.
Shamballa Jewels is by far the most successful luxury export coming out of Denmark in the last decade. The bespoke jewellery brand by brothers Mads and Mikkel Kornerup gained a cult following shortly after their launch in 2005, adorning the wrists of Jay-Z, Carine Roitfeld, and Giorgio Armani, not to brag. Fusing Eastern spiritualism with a Nordic design ethos, their unique vision for mens and womens jewellery have continued to attract clients from across the world. Entering their next chapter with the launch of a flagship store in New York, we sit down with the Kornerup brothers to discuss how it all started, and how we can expect to be “Shamballized” in many years to come.
What would mean for a fashion magazine to be queer and realized entirely by POC (People of Color)? What may seem like a rudimentary question remains in fact an urgent one in the field of fashion publishing. POCs have long fought a battle of representation in the shiny spreads of mainstream fashion magazines, but diversity is often championed as a superficial trope in fashion photography without wrestling with the deeper structural issues in the fashion industry relating to access and tokenism. How can publishing accommodate the diverse experience of being a person of color in today’s militant world? New York-based magazine MAROON WORLD have been devoted to exploring the many assumptions and issues within this vast theme since their launch in 2016. Combining art, culture, and genre-expanding photography, the team behind the magazine draw attention to the struggles and celebrations that unify people of color across ethnic and social origin. The second issue, which launched last week in New York with music by Joey Labeija, and GHE20G0TH1K founder Venus X, sets out to capture love in all its complexity; “what it means to us, how we see it play out behind closed doors, the various faces that love parades as, and the opportunities that exist in our communities to give and receive love – to others and to ourselves – at all levels,” as founders Travis Gumbs & Cynthia Cervantes explain. “While working on the second issue we both suffered great losses, each of us losing a grandparent within just a few months of each other. The rituals of death pushed us to reconsider how we were experiencing love through the lens of loss. As our grief intersected with our work, we came to believe that strength and resilience are at the true heart of giving and receiving love.”
The recent majestic celebration of the life and oeuvre of Gianni Versace at Milan Fashion Week, where all our favorite supermodels (Bruni, Christensen, Campbell, etc.) joined sister Donatella to bring back the late designer’s bold colorful vision, led several people to announce that this season “it’s Gianni season.” To them, all we have is a slap in the face, as well as a correction; it’s always Gianni Season. Gianni Versace, whose life ended tragically in Miami in 1997, had a take on opulence and fun in fashion that hasn’t been matched since. His cuts, colors, and materials scream 1980s yet endure the test of time for their timeless appeal. The archives from his many collections are fiercely hunted by collectors and shoppers to this day, and for those with such a passion, we’ve got the best news.
Fall is here, and with that comes not only great fashion but even greater art: it’s the official opening of the art calendar year, with museums and galleries alike opening their most anticipated shows of the year. Starting off in the Big Apple, and arguably, the center of the international art world, is MoMA’s new fashion exhibition, the first of its kind at the museum in 70 years! Items picks up where the last exhibition left off, examining 111 archetypes of contemporary dress culture, investigating how they’ve been employed by haute couture and mass fashion alike. Meet classics such as Levis 501s and the little black dress (reinvented repeatedly, from Chanel to Rick Owens via Mugler), as well as ubiquitous objects like the fanny-pack and flip flops, and get to know emerging garments like the controversial Burkini. An immense amount of historical research has gone into the exhibition, which fascinates, educates, and entertains as it unveils the complex role fashion has in our everyday lives. Let’s just hope that it won’t be another 70 years before MoMA’s next fashion exhibition.
Paris, Paris, Paris. Capital of France? For sure. Capital of Fashion? Not so certain anymore, although competition from its main contenders —bewildered London, morose New-York, and soporific Milan— seems incredibly tepid this year. Is S/S 2018 a catastrophic fashion season? Despite the general creative fatigue that has been going around like a persistent virus, resulting in the endemic copy-cat syndrome—effectively brought to light by several social media vigilantes including the controversial @diet_prada account, even though sometimes comparisons remain farfetched—a handful of designers were able to admirably hold their grounds.
From collection to cast, music to location…
Here are the 10 best of Paris Fashion Week SS18
The basic white tee is despite its simplicity one of the most classic pieces out there – all the way up next to the little black dress and pair of 501′s. First embraced by American seamen in the 1940s, the tee was wildly popularized through Marlon Brando, who in his role in The Wild One showed that all you need to be the sexiest man on earth is some cotton around your pecks. Since, from Juliette Greco and James Dean, to Brigitte Bardot and Calvin Klein-era Brooke Shields, the simple garment has cemented itself in our collective unconscious as the best example of casual cool. Acclaimed fashion photographer Mario Testino has been celebrating the white tee through his T-Shirt Collection, a photographic series he recently took to our side of the world, to Copenhagen and its many tender-looking faces. In total, nine Danish models – including Klara Kristin, Olivia Therese, and DANSK alum Kirstin Liljegren and Sylvester Ulv – features in the series, which was revealed on Testino’s personal platform Mira Mira today. “It begs the question,” he notes on his site – “when everyone has a white tee, what makes you stand out?” Find out here.
There’s nothing quite like home – after years on the road, we’ve come to appreciate the sense of comfort and origin that your birthplace provides. Whereas some spend years escaping where they’re from, others spend years trying to return – and this comes to show also in fashion, which is still a relatively young cultural phenomenon, at least in its current shape. Louis Vuitton were certainly some of the first kids on the (literal) block, established as a small leather travel gear manufacturer in 1854 on Rue Neuve des Capucines, just off of Place Vendôme in Paris’ 1st arrondissement.