The Marc Jacobs SS19 was quite the experience. An hour prior to the show, an e-mail notified guests that there would be a 30-minute delay — very civilized (please take note Paris Fashion Week). Tic toc. But one hour down and complaints were many. Fashion people’s ability to easily and happily whine during fashion week is remarkable. Did they have some prior commitment? Some hideous skirt convention to go to? At least one editor I know left to catch a flight back to Paris — fair enough.
In large part, fashion history tends to cast its focus on the privileged echelons of couture, as well as its mythologized cast of designers, stylists, models and business owners. Sure, Coco/Yves/Karl were/are interesting, alluring, fascinating makers of fashion – but it’s delusional to think that style only trickles down from above. Particularly in the last 50 years, street culture has invented, transformed, and revitalized the way we think of fashionability – far beyond the gilded runways of Paris. Fashion historians are better to begin to take note of Harlem, Berlin, and the outskirts of Paris as places of style-making – god knows that the industry already is! A nice recent contribution is the documentary Fresh Dress by African-American filmmaker and musician Sacha Jenkins. The film unfolds as a magical chronicle of hip hop’s relationship to dress, starting at the Southern plantations of pre-Civil Rights America to the black church and Little Richard. Through an incredible line-up that includes Kanye West, Pharell Williams, Nas Jones and Andre Leon Talley, Fresh Dress traces the development of hip hop dress up to today, where its influence is felt more than ever. The best part is, the whole thing is already up on Netflix for you to binge on this fashion month. Who needs the runway when you have the streets!
Watch Fresh Dress here.
Fall fashion by Max vom Hofe and Phuong Lam
Stop whatever you’re doing! It’s fashion month! If you haven’t already joined the caravan of manic, sleep-deprived editors and buyers traversing New York, Milan, London and Paris in the coming 30 days, you need to pack your bags NOW! Or, at least stay close to your computer in order to consume all of next year’s fashions at instantaneous speed. Round-ups will be coming, but until now, stay tuned for the most anticipated show in New York: CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. Defying the torrential rains that have plagued the fashion week thus far, Raf Simons is sure to bring out all the sunshine this Tuesday, 11th September, 20:00 New York time (that’s 2AM EST). Click below to watch. You’re welcome!
Boys! Boys! Boys!
God knows we love ‘em. Alejandro Cabezut takes on a head-spinning journey into muscle-clad brotherhood, a perfect warmer now that the days are getting colder…
Jana Gerberding and Toby Grimditch tests the limits of space and time in this breath-taking editorial – more inside…
Feeling winter creeping in on you yet? Well, just your luck, for this month, Swedish apparel heroes Acne Studios and Fjällräven have joined forces and procured your new winter’s wardrobe. The collection is unisex, multi-color and – of course – a warm tribute to Swedish fashion culture. Gifted with Fjällräven’s seasoned functionality and the vanguard fashion aesthetic from Acne Studios, it is, in other words, a clever mix.
In a time of political turmoil in the big USA – wherein the country’s leader acts more as a hypersensitive, 5-year old compulsive liar than an actual president – it’s hard to say many things about “American Identity” that more than a couple of people may want to stand behind. Even the biggest nation states need collective narratives – be it through food, cinema, or fashion choices. Ironically, the person who seems most interested in re-defining American identity at the moment is a Belgian – to be exact, Raf Simons, whose tenancy at the Calvin Klein empire only continues to unfold in brilliance.