Today’s transgressive, subversive and even ‘revolutionary’ ways of fashion-making (championed by Parisian collective Vetement) is not new at all: in fact, a brief look at the history books will trace these tendencies back to the 90s fashion world. In the time after 80s high glam, and in a time of global crisis, voices like Comme des Garçons and Margiela began re-defining the very conception of fashion. A new documentary by the fantastic M2M video network traces this cultural moment in their new documentary Antifashion – and features previously unseen interviews with the absolute masters of the fashion world (including a very young Donatella!) Follow this link to see more.
If you ever feel alone and
The glare makes me hard to find
Just know that I’m always parallel on the other side
OAMC is what happens when progressive streetwear goes artisinal. The brainchild of Luke Meier and Arnaud Faeh, former creative directors of superbrands Supreme and Carhartt respectively, the brand has a meticulous focus and enthusiasm for tailoring, but applied to a modern and urban silhouette – in a way, transgressing past distinctions between streetwear and high mens fashion, which frankly was about time! Growing organically as brand, pieces are made in small batches from the finest suppliers in Italy, France and Portugal to ensure the highest quality. Their sturdy vision of how fashion can be done seems to have paid of, with mentions in Vogue and i-D, as well as stockists including Mr Porter, Ssense and HAVEN. We sat down with the duo to catch up on the latest news!
How did you two meet, and how was the brand OAMC born? What were your aspirations?
We met through mutual friends and we worked a bit together after that. We initiated OAMC as a reaction to what I couldn’t find in the market that I wanted to wear. I wanted something well made, but I didn’t feel that any of the contemporary luxury men’s brands were doing things that spoke to me. OAMC is a direct result of this. I also wanted to create a total look from the first season, and gradually deepen and expand the offering in all categories I feel are the necessary components of a contemporary wardrobe.
Do you draw actively on the history of menswear and tailoring, or do you try to be forward-looking in your methodology?
I look at both. Menswear has interesting codes and techniques that are heavy on context, but are typically used in the same traditional and classic ways. I find the techniques interesting, but I try to change the way they are used. I always try to make something new and contemporary, but at a high level that honors traditional menswear.
What are the pros and cons of streetwear? What impulse did you have to change it?
I have absolutely no plans to change streetwear. It’s a term that has been manufactured, and to me it connotes something negative. The founders of companies that are considered streetwear, guys like Shawn Stussy or James Jebbia, are simply interested in style, nothing more. Whatever people call it now, it doesn’t matter. It’s all about style, no matter what brand you wear. With OAMC I only care about making authentic products. I come from a certain place, have a certain education, and have had certain experiences. It is this combination that allows me to make OAMC products as diverse as sneakers, graphic t-shirts, or tailoring with real authenticity because it’s who I am and what I am personally interested in.
What constitutes “modern menswear” to you?
Modernity comes through in simply doing something that feels right, right now. In the context of menswear, I believe modernity to be an approach that eschews the formal codes and contexts of the past and allows a greater freedom in the way of dressing. More unusual combinations of materials and shapes, more interesting volumes. Menswear is interesting at the moment.
How important is manufacturing to you? Why is this so?
Manufacturing is extremely important to me. I believe that it is only worth making high-quality products that have a high value. As fast as the world moves, long-lasting products made from good materials are the ones that mean something, and in the end are much better investment. This is fundamental to OAMC as we make in areas with the best manufacturing capabilities for each product we design.
Do you have themes, phenomena or inspiration that you continue to return to?
I always look to nature for inspiration. That is the strongest theme in our collections. I also very much involve a traditional menswear and functional design language. It is important that my design work has a contemporary relevance, so I pay a lot of attention to what my friends are interested in as well.
How have the last 3 years been for OAMC?
They have been positive and they have been filled with a lot of work. I am proud of how far we have come as a brand, and I have begun to realize the types of the products that I originally set out to make. We are fortunate to work with some of the best wholesale partners in the world, and have wonderful and inspired makers who help bring the vision to life.
Where do you hope to take the brand in the future?
I am only concerned with the organic growth of the brand. We are pursuing the best possible way to expand our perspective, and will take much larger steps in the future as they present themselves. I look forward to creating an entire universe that our customers can experience.
Growing up between Africa, America and Paris’ 16th arrondisement, with family friends that included Nan Goldin and Christian Louboutin, French actress Léa Seydoux was perhaps always destined to be the face of the world’s most luxurious travel company.
Mario Testino in reality needs no introduction – his huge body of work stands before him and can say more about his character than any written word. As one of the worlds most prolific and well-loved photographers, Peruvian born Mario has a client list that reads like a Who’s Who of the fashion world with Gucci, Burberry, Chanel, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar repeatedly turning to him for a slice of high-voltage sexed-up glamour. At the same time, following a ground-breaking photoshoot with the late Princess Diana that showed her relaxed and fun-loving side, Mario is now the go-to guy for European royalty portraits. Now, on the eve of his huge retrospective exhibition in Copenhagen’s GL Strand gallery – the first time he has shown in Denmark – Mario talks to us about his inspiration and life behind the lens.
Since launching in 2013, H&M’s stylist older sister & Other Stories has continued to redefine the quality of upper-market high-street.