Beige, brown, tan, nude, khaki, oatmeal, sand, camel, ecru: there are many ways to pronounce our current favorite color. After a summer in whites (yes, that was the go-to color this season, if you didn’t realize), we’ve moved on to the world of light brown – a truly luxurious range of hues, when you think about it, that evoke a range of iconic fashion history moments. From the all-khaki suits of 20th century safari explorers to Martin Margiela’s most opulent years at French maison Hermès, all the way to the present-day Era of Nude spearheaded by Yeezy and Kim Kardashian, beige is here to stay. From Calabasas track suits to lux woolen trench coats, beige is as versatile as it is iconic. The new spin, if there’s any, is not only to sport a full-beige look – but to mix the various hues and tonalities to produce a subtle color-block effect that will entice as much as it will confuse. When nothing matches, everything matches, no one said ever – so you heard it here first. Have a look inside for some of our current sand favorites that will be accompanying our autumnal affairs this coming season.
As fashion month comes to a close, the art world is ready to saddle up for a season of frantic activity, beginning with last week’s Frieze Art Fair in London and running all the way until Art Basel Miami in December. For the next two months, the world’s prime gallerists, artists, and collectors will roam across the Earth in the search for the best showcases and sales – and this week, it’s all about Paris, who hosts its annual FIAC art fair. While FIAC is one of the older fairs of the European continent, it’s only in recent years it’s really re-established itself as a leader in the industry, attracting a great variety of blue chip and emerging names from around the world. Its international importance has made the FIAC week the most important of the year for the city’s museums and galleries, as proven by the wealth of exhibitions that can be experienced in the city. Should you be an uninitiated outsider – or frankly, just more concerned with the latest droppings on Vogue Runway, but still down for some painting-watching – despair not; here are four shows not to miss this week in the French Capital.
As summer turns to fall, Netflix offers a wide selection range of interesting, watch worthy fashion documentaries. Dries, Manolo and Jeremy Scott; The Peoples Designer (watch it! You will never again think Moschino without also thinking Scott’s adorable parents). In the series The Social Fabric, streetwear designer Kyle Ng travels the world to discover the origins and meanings of iconic accessories and garment pieces. The t-shirt, the cowboy boot, the leather jacket, even the fedora is up for examination on the show that provides its viewers with a wider knowledge on some of fashions recurring items. But, as we have learned the later years, there are other – and less fun – sides of the industry, on which we have to keep educating ourselves. A new documentary produced by BBC Three picks up the thread from Andrew Morgans The True Cost (2015), by bringing focus to some of fashions dirtiest secrets.
The center of the 19th century universe was undoubtedly Paris – the city of lights, the pioneer of couture, and the historical cradle of what we today know as art. From the founding of the public museum Louvre in the wake of the French Revolution, to the rise of the art salons and annual exhibitions that promoted the newest avant-garde frontier, it’s in Paris that art finds its modern rendition. Since, the city’s art world has taken a few tumbles, overwhelmed by a dominating fashion industry, expensive real estate, and a cultural localism due to language barriers. However, in recent years a momentum has been building once more for the city’s cultural frontier, aided by the success of art fair FIAC (opening 18th of October) and a recent expansion beyond the notorious highway periphery by several galleries and artists. One of the strongest voices in this new generation of art intermediaries is Nordic Contemporary, devoted to showcasing the best of Scandinavian art in the French capital. Co-founded by fellow Scandis Jacob Valdemar and Andreas Emenius in 2014, Nordic Contemporary has moved across the city in nomadic fashion until they in 2018 finally moved into their permanent gallery space near Republique. The aim of the space is to create long-term visibility for Nordic art and showcase internationally the Nordic region’s increasing importance on the global art scene. Opening the group show DARKEST BEFORE DAWN next week – responding to dystopian and dualist modes of critical thinking, and featuring Norwegian, Finnish and Danish artists –we sat down with Emanius to learn more about the project.
Riccardo Tisci has unveiled his first collection for British fashion brand Burberry since his announcement as the brand’s new creative director back in March. When the announcement was made, many quickly began speculating what he would do to the British fashion heritage maison. Many bets were put on his love for glam rock and Gothicism, as seen in his years at the French fashion luxury house Givenchy; others on his natural and intuitive take on the millennial generation and that this would stir things up a bit in the West London stable dresser. Finally, some set their hopes up for him to keep promoting diversity through his work. Most of it was fulfilled.
As fashion month (finally) comes to a close, you might – like us – find yourself sitting paralyzed on your daybed, staring in to nothingness, with feet massacred from kilometers of stiletto walking and €2000 less on your bank account, wondering what it all means. What can we really gather from fashion week, when that week lasts 36 days and spans 4 cities and features more than 200 prominent names? Not much, we can admit. But because we’re fashion editors, it’s actually our job to sit and parse through whatever we may have missed between the accent removal of CELINE to the beach vibes at CHANEL, and regurgitate it to you in a somewhat interesting, even inspiring manner. So with no further due, we present one view of the SS19 season, unapologetically featuring our favorite and the most trend-defining accessories of next summer.
or: THE EMOTIONAL ROLLERCOASTER OF PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI’S VALENTINO, TEARS INCLUDED.
Words alone cannot fully describe the feelings pirouetting inside one’s body during a Valentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. The collection’s notes insisted on the word freedom, the idea of letting things go and discovering a paradisaical haven where rules don’t matter any more. Pierpaolo Piccioli invited his guests in the Invalides complex, as Hedi Slimane did two days before. Of course no rational being would venture into comparing the two shows on such basis, because in terms of splendor, Valentino is plainly unmatchable.
As we close the windows of our apartments for the first time in 5 months, put on our comfiest socks, and replace the sparkling rosé with mulled wine, we know it’s time for indoor season. As much as we love nature and socializing (read: drinking) in public space, nothing really beats the Great Indoors. With physical barriers, you’re able to create intimate environments of rest and recreation, aided by lighting, furniture, music all under your control. Not to forget smell – a sensory realm which tends to prioritize the natural. It’s hard to match the smell of trees blowing on a August summer day – god knows that bathroom cleaning products have tried desperately for the last 50 years (Nothing sold as “Ocean Breeze” will give you the tranquility of a walk on the beach – only migraines). Thank god, then, for Aesop.
It’s no coincidence that in the current moment of social and political crisis in America, where bigots and abuse of power prevails over democracy and transparency, fashion sees a retreat to an older, more romanticized idea of the USA – open pastures, college towns, road trips, deserts, and so forth. Leading the way is Raf Simons – a European – at Calvin Klein, but also Acne Studios, Luar and Telfar can be seen to reference the iconography of Americana, riffing Western movies while lovingly mocking it, critiquing it, and making it queer (don’t forget, idealized images of “old” America is also the political rhetoric of fascist Trump!). Our current favorite, however, is Wrangler, an apparel brand that doesn’t have to be “inspired” by America of yesteryear because they actually helped establish it (or, at least, dress it): since 1947, the company has been crafting the sharpest jeans for utilitarian workers as much as fashionistas, gaining them popularity across the world. Their F/W collection sees a group of kids running around in the woods of Idaho, while the collection features aesthetic cues from 1970s and 80s silhuettes. What’s more American than that? While Wrangler might not be able to single-highhandedly solve the political crisis in Washington DC, we’re feeling inspired by their reclaiming of an American identity.
The world is built on opposites, and controversies make the world go around, but the ditch between renewal and originality has grown too wide for me to overlook. While the industries strive for revolutionary techniques and innovative products, they also want history, authenticity and originality. The ditch makes the long contradictory and difficult to satisfy, and I wonder if it too wide for the industries to overcome. In search for an answer to this, Swedish fashion brand, Acne Studio’s autumn/winter campaign, is worth noticing.