What were the defining moments of 2017 fashion journalism and critique? As the New Year approaches, and we’re permanently couched on the sofa of our parents-in-law for the coming weeks, there seems no better time than to re-visit our favorite fashion writing of the past year. Critical fashion writing is still in its nascent stage, particularly due to the lack of platforms to support it. The current corporatization of fashion inevitably impedes publishing too, where the profound dependence on ever-slimmer advertising budgets forces magazine editors to curve, bend, and jump for the whims and wishes of clients. That being said, 2017 has offered some absolutely critical moments of fashion writing, from academic fashion journals to lectures and art magazines. Brew yourself that matcha latte, sit down, and have a stroll through the fashion year of 2017.
Christmas is upon us, and so is our insatiable urge to build wishlists. Besides our Amazon list, which at this point is long enough to fill up a new wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, we tend to avoid the “save for later” option throughout the year – if you don’t want it now, it’s because you don’t need it – but the moment the first Mariah Carey Christmas crooner reaches our ears, we start snooping around on web-shops for must-buys for the coming festive season. As ideal an opportunity it is for getting your grandparents to re-stock your kitchen with a new set of Ikea glassware, Christmas presents should really be about the non-utilitarian commodities of life – the collectibel, the weird and decorative, the luxurious. In preparation for next weeks madness, and in recognition that several of our readers may still be desperately seeking shopping tips, we’re happy to bring you the first edition of our Christmas wish-list.
While the strategy of x designer collaborating with x market manufacturer to produce a capsule collection of desirable monogrammed commodities is reaching a point of saturation, we’re still convinced there’s a few more team-ups we’d like to see. Maybe in 2018 we’ll see a Vetements collaboration with Walmart – or was Juicy Couture the limit for the Zurich-based company? We’ll see. But before then, we’re sharing our last — we promise — collaboration of the year, this time between Danish street RTW brand Soulland and global sportswear leader Nike, specifically their subsidiary NikeSB, who specifically support skateboarding culture across the globe, from L.A. to St. Petersburg.
How we treasure those moments when conventional womenswear brands take a risk and dip into the world of menswear. Lagerfeld has offered a few takes on the Chanel man over the years – just as Stella McCartney recently extended her ecological vision to the world of men. We know – it’s a complex world – with many conservatisms and rules that are still only beginning to get get undone. But it is exactly because of all this exciting work ahead – a deconstruction of the classic men’s silhouette – that it’s important when womenswear brands offer their more playful approach to cut, fit, and colors. This is proven in the new mens capsule collection by New York brand Sies Marjan, spearheaded by creative director Sander Lak. Lak has long been known for his casual but eclectic take on dress in his personal life – and in fact, it was the staples of his personal wardrobe that served as an inspiration for the collection, which sports 14 pieces. Not straying to far afield, the collection also samples the familiar color-scheme of the women’s line – proving that Sies Marjan goes far beyond any gender classification. Lak approached Thomas McCarty to shoot the douce-toned campaign, featuring the beaux Roberto Rossellini and Niko Trabuman – and for your luck, the collection is already available for purchase on their e-store.
Paris–Hamburg was not a self-administrated Extreme Unction as rumours swells about Lagerfeld’s age, health, and retirement. It was au contraire Hamburg today and right now. No melodramatic nostalgia —Lagerfeld is quick to remind everyone never to look in the rear-view mirroring their life— and no ostentatious homage to his mother or childhood. Today and right now for Chanel. The Métiers d’Art 2017/18 show was held in the city’s brand new landmark, the ElbPhilharmonie. The building was designed by Swiss-based Herzog & De Meuron with an initial budget of £60 million, but the project ended up costing close to £620 million according to recent estimations. While such expenditure might sound excessive, for Germany —the homeland of classical music’s greatest composers: Beethoven, Bach, Schumann, Wagner, and Handel should they be named— it is actually a serious cultural matter and a question of heritage and pride. It is fair to say that the building matches the extravagant productions Karl Lagerfeld has accustomed his audience to in the past.
It’s award season! The Oscars, the BAFTAs, you name it. But the most important one – Fashion Awards 2017 – took place last night, at the Royal Albert Hall in London, in the company of a star-studded audience consisting of fashion’s most important gate-keepers. Previously British Fashion Awards, the Swarovski-sponsored prize recently re-named itself to open up for an international market; and in the process, establishing itself as the most authoritative fashion award in the world. This was felt yesterday, as the event attracted the industry’s key players to celebrate as well as remember the unique power and play in fashion, even in these dark times. A particularly emotional moment was super model Naomi Campbell’s tribute to the late Azzedine Alaïa, whose recent passing sent shock-waves through the industry; while recently appointed Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri remembered the notorious and wildly ambitious Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani, who passed earlier this year in her battle with cancer. These two moments of mourning and reflection suited the event, which is otherwise known for constantly pursuing the new and “ground-breaking”. From models to young designers in both mens and womenswear, the best of the fashion year 2017 was crowned by a glamorous roster of presenters – highlights include current British Vogue cover girl Adwoa Aboah as Model of the Year and Raf Simons for Designer of the Year – a title he has very much earned after stellar collections at Calvin Klein as well as his eponymous brand in the last 12 months. See the full list of awardees below:
Too rarely does the world of technology meet that of craftsmanship, as the Age of Apple seems insatiable for streamlined and futuristic design. Sure, none of us like cables and wires and other techno-crap of yesteryear, but that doesn’t mean we like all our products to look like something coming out of Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. Artistry, as a matter of fact, often happens in the scrunchy, organic, morphological space of natural matter, touched by the human hand rather than some self-cleaning 3D-printer that might kill you in your sleep. The visionary brand Urbanears, specializing in making sound accessories better more aesthetically relevant, seems to have realized this in their most recent collaboration with Swedish designer Sandra Backlund.
What makes a truly iconic face in fashion? The art of modelling is as elusive as it is stunningly obvious when done right – the combination of expression, a control of your body, and disciplined hard work. Model casting continues to take a variety of ever-morphing forms—from competitions to TV shows to street style casting—but while the idea of what “beauty” might have expanded in the last decade, being a good model is still pretty neatly defined. This week, the most prestigious global model competition Elite Model Look came to a dramatic close in Milan, where 63 finalists from all over the world, and of both genders, competed for a moment in the spotlight as well as a sought-after modelling contract with agency Elite.
Through his career he has met many unique personalities which each inspires him in his work and on daily bases.
Every month Kim collaborates with one of his muses to express his point of fashion right now.
For december you can experience the new rising star Emili Sindlev in this season’s party looks.
The Copenhagen based it-girl, with the charming and fun personality, works as a stylist and with her thousands of Instagram followers, she has attracted partnerships with international brands such as Calvin Klein, Chanel and By Malene Birger.
There’s nothing better than when two forces collide – here, it happens to be those of filmmaker Masha Vasyukova and iconic British brand Alexander McQueen. They do so in the streets of London, where a gang of fabulously dressed gentlemen roam the streets, seemingly in search for something (a girlfriend? a boyfriend? fish n’ chips? It remains unclear). The video brilliantly shows McQueen’s increasingly contemporary approach to menswear , incorporating sportswear details into the classically tailored silhouettes for which they’re known and celebrated. Known for her narrative-led and dramatic cinematography, fashion filmmaker Vasyukova has worked extensively in the European fashion circuit, producing original video and still content for the likes of Hèrmes, Prada, and Vogue Italia. In the US, she casually shot Rihanna for the NYT supplement T Magazine, just as she features as a regular contributor to W. Wait, who said fish n’ chips?